Moncler S.p.A. (MONC) Earnings Call Transcript & Summary

July 22, 2026

BIT IT Consumer Discretionary Textiles, Apparel and Luxury Goods earnings 100 min

Earnings Call Speaker Segments

Operator

operator
#1

Good evening. This is the Chorus Call conference operator. Welcome, and thank you for joining the Moncler First Half 2026 Financial Results Conference Call. [Operator Instructions]. At this time, I would like to turn the conference over to Ms. Elena Mariani Group Strategic Planning and Investor Relations Director. Please go ahead, madam.

Elena Mariani

executive
#2

Good evening, everyone, and thank you for joining our call tonight on Moncler Group's First Half 2026 Financial Results. Before starting, I need to remind you that this presentation may contain certain statements that are neither reported financial results nor other result of information. Any forward-looking statements are based on group current expectations and projections about future events. By their nature, forward-looking statements are subject to risks, uncertainties and other factors that could cause results to differ even materially from those expressed in or implied by these statements, many of which are beyond the ability of the group to control or estimate. Let me also highlight that given the nature of our business, interim results can be influenced by seasonal effects and therefore, cannot be taken as a proxy for full year trends or results. Finally, I remind you that the press has been invited to participate to this conference in a listen-only mode. Before starting our H1 review, I would like to hand over to Leo Rongone, our new Group Chief Executive Officer. As you all know, Leo joined the company just 3 months ago, and he would like to share some first observations and thoughts after his first few weeks into the company. Leo, over to you.

Leo Rongone

executive
#3

Thank you, Elena. Good evening, everyone. It's a real honor and a great privilege to speak to you today for the first time as the CEO of the Moncler Group. Before handing over to the team for the Q2 results and the Q&A session, I'd like to share a few reflections on my first 3 months within the company, an important time for me of the listening, learning and meeting so many talented individuals across the organization from quarters to our regional offices from our stores to our production [indiscernible]. These initial months have been critical to gain a deep understanding of the group to shape my perspective and to identify where we can continue to evolve and where we will focus our energy from now on. You know I have admired Moncler from the outside for many years, has always had great respect from what Remo Ruffini and his team have built over the years. Now experiencing the company from the inside my amination as we increase even more. What I've found since joining the group is truly remarkable. An organization that perfectly combines outstanding creativity with strong operational discipline. You will know is the rare balance. And to me, one of the key reasons behind the enduring success of this group I've also been impressed by the uncompromising commitment to product excellence, quality, meticulous attention to details and a constant drive for improvement are not simply processes here, they are deeply rooted in the culture of the company. There is something else. The way we tell our stories, in an industry that's becoming even more crowded and noisy, our communication is uptime and engaging. We are able to make our voice heard to build genuine and lasting connections with our communities. This unique capability is a real competitive advantage. Most importantly, however, is the people who have really inspired me. Across every function and every region, I have found a strong sense of ownership, a deep commitment to excellence and a true passion. I've also met a solid leadership team that has built two of the most iconic and desirable luxury brands. This is an asset it value, and I'm fully committed to preserving and strengthening. Looking ahead, I see exciting opportunities for the group. As far as Moncler is concerned, our strategic priorities are clear: building relevancy in regions where we have great potential, cultivating a dialogue with our customers across all seasons and unlocking the full potential of our 3 brand dimensions you are already familiar with, collection, [indiscernible] and Genius. The focus now is on a further step-up in execution and making sure each of these priorities translate into tangible and consistent results over time. To do so, we will explore new ways of pushing creative and technical boundaries. Innovation in materials, for example, will be key to embody the true value of the mountain throughout the entire year, beyond the single season and to elevate our product experience, the mountains encourage while being intentional leading and a deep human connection, something we deeply rooted in our values and identity. Moreover, there is a significant potential to further expand the brand's legitimity beyond the core order category. Always respecting our brand DNA. Talking about Stone Island, have found a brand with an exceptionally strong identity, a unique culture innovation and one of the most authentic and engaged communities in the luxury sector. The foundation that has been built over these past years are very solid and the progress we are seeing today reflects disciplined execution of a clear long-term strategy. Looking at the future, we will continue to focus on product research strengthened the pot of our global distribution and invest in consistent culturally relevant brand communication. By doing so, we will deepen our relationship with our loyal community while introducing Stone Island for a new generation of clients around the world. For both brands, the way we engage with our clients represent a clear opportunity. Over the years, we have built a strong platform and the power saleability to reach and inspire wide audiences. Now we want to translate this strength into even more direct more frequent and more personal interaction with our VAC, building stronger relationship with them over time. To conclude, these first months have only reinforced my belief that many more remarkable chapter of this group story has yet to be written. And I'm deeply honored that driving them alongside Remo. His vision leadership has been the driving force behind the Moncler extraordinary journey so far. Together within an [indiscernible] management team, we will keep working with a long-term perspective. committed to helping this group reach its full potential, always guided by the health and desirability of our brands. I'm very excited by the journey had, and I look forward to meeting many of you in person over the coming quarters when there will be the opportunity to share more on my perspective. But tonight, we are here to talk about our Q2 results. So now let me hand over to Elena, Gino and Luciano for the H1 review and the Q&A session. Thank you.

Elena Mariani

executive
#4

Thank you very much, Leo. For our audience, I mean, of course, there will be the opportunity to meet and get to know Leo in the coming quarters. and to have corporate discussions with him. But tonight, we are here to talk about our Q2 results. So I will now move on to host our H1 results presentation. and Q&A session, of course, together with Luciano Santel, Chief Corporate and Supply Officer; and Gino Fisanotti, Chief Brand Officer. Before handing it over to Gino and Luciano, let me just present the key highlights of today's results on Page 4. Group revenues in the first half of the year were EUR 1.29 billion, up 9% at constant FX. In the second quarter, group revenues were up 5% at constant effects [indiscernible] MoCA brands accounting for 84% of the group's H1 turnover was up 9% in H1 and 3% in Q2. The [indiscernible] brands accounting for 16% of the group's H1 turnover was up both in H1 and in Q2. In the first half of the year, the group also reached an EBIT of EUR 254 million with a margin of 19%. Net result was EUR 165 million with a 12.8% margin, and our net cash position at the end of June exceeded EUR 1.1 billion. Let me now hand it over to Gino for the key highlights of the Moncler brands in the second quarter. Gino, over to you.

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#5

Okay. Thanks, Leo, Elena, ciao. Good afternoon, night to everyone connected. Before we go into the business of the presentation with the channel, I just wanted to take a second to share a bit of the strength we are seeing within the running the very first 6 months of the year. I think we we've seen very robust results, not only in terms of the execution and the quality of the work that we were able the teams to put out there, but equally robust in terms of the global reach and impact, the community engagement we saw and more importantly, the organic brand interest in Moncler brand. In this case, I think the first 6 months were led by some very special and some first-ever executions for the Moncler brand. I have to say that the fee-driven forces over the last 6 years have been, of course, Aspen with a show of renewable. But then our return into the Winter Olympics was a very special moment for the brand with the whole story. And then last one least something that we'll start covering now in detail our first formal spring/summer end-to-end work. So if we go to the next slide, that I think is Slide #5. We can start talking about our official first end-to-end work against spring/summer. I think when I say end to end, and this is something we use a lot internally. It's about meaning that we connect all the different consumer touch mends under one single effort and narrative from product to retail, from marketing to digital platforms, from wholesale to e-commerce, and even from tape media to traditional media and so on. So this is the first time we officially wanted to bring something like this and I know this is a conversation. We have so many systems with all of you. And hopefully, you were able to see what was done in the last few weeks. This spring summer campaign, to be honest many more than just a seasonal effort for us. This represents a kickoff of a long-term commitment that we have as a brand, and we strongly believe that this kickoff means for us the opportunity to become relevant and meaningful across the entire year. Then, of course, this campaign was called Have a [ puffy ] Summer, but for us, Have a Puffy Summer means some are the one way. We believe that we with this campaign, we're able to create a unique opportunity for the brand to tackle this very interesting transition that happened between the spring to summer through a solution that we believe is a system of rest, which are fully expressed through the power of layering that we showcased in the campaign and, of course, through the retail experience. This network push a different home for the brand while remaining outride to who we are, despite our strong heritage and of course, DNA each winter. From very impactful executions across media pop-ups in Europe or Asia, all the way down to countless press coverage, editorials and digital and retail execution. This was just our very first season and efforts that we'll keep building on the back of this very, very important first step. To be honest, and to share with you, and I'm sure we'll go into details later in the Q&A., we are happy to see the level of results we were able to achieve during this period we're able to experience not only a strong global reach at a global scale, but more importantly, great results in some big consumer and community engagement on top of the performance of the collection itself. Last but not the least we're equally excited about the learnings we were able to capture the season to keep building even stronger plans and execution towards next spring season and the ones to come. So with that, I'm happy to go for into the next slide that has other highlights for Q2. First of all, on the back of the special season and we discussed about spring/summer for Moncler, of course, we did our first efforts as well as spring/summer around Grenoble, and if you think about renewable, I always think we discussed about this that we said of this very important run I mentioned just a few years ago. And even our first spring/summer product started very shy less than 2 years ago. So to be honest, I think we are very excited to see the acceptance and the global acceptance that this collection is having the performance of this dimension of the brand is having. And of course, the opportunity for us to keep reaching an inviting new and more customers into the brand. Then following into the next part of the last few weeks, of course, we just launched our pre-fall '26 for Moncler production. And we introduced this collection of setting what we call the language of deals. Behind this collection, and this is the great attention we pay not only to the layering and the solutions that we are going to, again, in this case, from the transition from summer into fall. Last but not least, a few weeks ago, we hosted a Moncler global headquarters, a new season of Studio Shanti. For those who don't remember what it is, to set is our annual platform where we present are coming footwear collection to media editors, celebrities and people from the sneaker culture and beyond. I have to say that despite I think I repeat myself that we don't want to become a footwear-led company. I think we're happy with the calculated efforts regarding this caster. We are really happy with the progress we are making in terms of this dimension of footwear decision introducing new styles like the [indiscernible], sorry. and especially new products and collaboration that creates some press coverage before launch like the Clarks to Grid or some of the fragment collaborations that are about to come on top of new innovations like the [indiscernible], a new concept that will be launched in 2027. Sorry, one more thing. I got one more. I said last on these. But one final thing for me to share with you all is I'm going to take the opportunity to thank, of course, the entire motor family for the app was made, but we were -- we are extremely proud to share with you that Moncler was able to win the very first Grand Prix Award at Cannes festival same for other recognitions like Gold and the [indiscernible] as a great testament to the work done behind Warmer Together campaign that we launched a few months ago featuring Al Pacino and Robert DeNiro. Clearly, we're not just happy because of the award or the recognition itself. But as we mentioned many times to each of you in the past, we strongly believe that we have a brand in the power of storytelling and by share our values on in a way that can create emotional connection and long last in relation with our customers out there, something that I think Leo just mentioned a second ago. I think when we get the news and we learn about this, I think Remo Ruffini said that advertising come and go, but emotional connections and creativity remains forever, and we strongly believe that, that's the opportunity to keep doing season after season. So that's all from my side. Of course, we'll talk later. I will pass it to Luciano to go into the next part of the presentation. Thank you.

Luciano Santel

executive
#6

Okay. Thank you. Thank you, Gino and good afternoon and good morning everybody. Thank you for attending our call today. We are now at Page 6, where let me spend a few more Page 7, sorry, where we report some highlights of Stone Island marketing initiatives One is the no seasons project that was represented during the brand design week featuring iconic outerwear item designed in the early '80s in shifts of the most iconic fabrics of Boston Ireland, all of them in the same on. Second activity is about the [indiscernible] collaboration with the new balance, the visit in the world of football and featuring 2 professional football players, Andre, with Brazil and [indiscernible] playing for England. Last, still very important project presented at the end of June. That is called the community as a form of research and featuring the World Champion table Danish player using wearing a pinnacle item of the full winter collection. Okay. Let's move now to Page 8 where we report our results for Moncler brand revenues by geography. In the second quarter, multibrand grew 3% positive and a good growth rate, not good as much as in the first quarter, but still something we are happy with, with a very strong contribution of Asian market, plus 12%, good contribution of American 4% and a weaker softer Europe EMEA region down 8%, mostly due to a softer tourism flows, particularly from Asia, but also from Americas and also still with a very weak online performance. Americas, the plus percent represent is a weighted average of in the direct channel that is higher, slightly higher than the 4%. And this is something important light because, of course, that the channel is a very important approach. Let's move now to next page, Page 9, where we report the same revenues of Moncler brand by channel. Both [indiscernible] grew 3% in the quarter. And with the comp store sales in the first half of the year, of 7%. Again, the most channels and mostly the DTC channel was affected mostly in Europe by the weaker tourism loan. [indiscernible], was positive first quarter is positive in the second quarter, better than what we originally expected, also thanks to the good reorders coming from the wholesale market, which represent evidence a good sellout of our sale network. Okay. Let's go now to Page 10, where we report Stone Island revenues by geography. On Ireland, as Elena just said, for the fourth quarter in a row reports double-digit growth rate of 11%. Good growth would grow in all the different regions, particularly strong in Asia, very, very strong in America, of course, on a smaller base, but still very, very encouraging our project in the future and a weaker but still positive growth in Europe. Asia, of course, includes APAC and China very good. And Japan and Korea both very, very, very strong. You may remember that Korea until last year was not party good, but now I mean also in the first quarter, is doing very well and, of course, much better than in the past Okay. Let's move now to Page 11, still revenues to value revenues by channel. Again, behind the average growth rate of 11%, a very nice remarkable and encouraging 15% in the DTC channel that, of course, is particularly important and encouraging for the management team and a good solid in the wholesale channel. Next page, Page 12, we report our retail network for both brands. We opened stores in the quarter for Moncler, one in Monterrey, one in Vancouver acres, and the shared the one in the airport of Osaka Airport. Okay. Let's move now to Page 13, where we report as usual, our profit and loss for the first half of the year. an anticipated some important numbers. Of course, the top line, we already gave you some comments, a total of EUR 1.29 billion. we were slightly below EUR 1 billion in gross profit, EUR 995 million with 77.2% better than last year, slightly better due to a positive channel mix, a very good contribution of selling expenses below last year and a good contribution of GLA that has been affected by one-off EUR 8 million related to the new governance structure, EUR 8 million in the first half of the year that will be at the end of the year, less or slightly less EUR 10 million. So most of this one-off has been reported in the first half of the year. Marketing expenses in line with last year, 9.5% with our usual expectation we didn't change of a 7% contribution of our marketing budget on the year-end. At today, an operating margin better than the 18.3% reported last year. Just a comment on the net financial expenses that are higher than last year due to higher interest basis on these liabilities. At the end, the group net result 12.8%, slightly better than [indiscernible]. Okay. Let's move now to Page 14, where we report net CapEx, EUR 89 million with the distribution between infrastructure and the distribution in line with last year, slightly higher in percent of revenues, but still with -- I mean, with an expectation for this year to go back to incidents by the year-end. To go back because last year, due to some important investments we made last year, the incidence was closer as you see 6.9%. So many projects on the distribution side, including the upcoming new opening of our store in New York is revenue, but also many projects on our infrastructure. Okay. Let's move now to Page 15. I where we report net working capital at 10% higher than last year due to a higher inventory level due to strategic decision in investing in some strategic raw materials, particularly in down for several different reasons. But everything under strict control, nothing to highlight. And still with a plan for the year-end to go back to substantially in line with what we reported last year, that was 9.7%. Net financial position at Page 16. Okay, EUR 1.12 billion at the end of June as compared to the EUR 981 million last year, end of June last year. Just comment about our liabilities that are equal to EUR 1.19 billion as compared with EUR 1.19 billion last year. Okay. Let's go briefly to Page 18, where we report a cash flow statement. I do make a comment on balance sheet. But of course, please if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask cash flow statement, the free cash flow, very good, much better than last year, EUR 34 million versus EUR 15 million last year, mostly due to the better operating margin, better EBIT than last year. Important to highlight that net cash flow was negative, but after the payment of EUR 374 million of dividends. Okay. So we are done with the presentation now. Thank you for your attention and ready to answer your questions.

Elena Mariani

executive
#7

Yes. We will now hand it over to the operator for your questions. I kindly ask you to speak to a maximum of two questions per person. Operator, you can now open the Q&A line. Thank you.

Operator

operator
#8

[Operator Instructions]. First question is from Natasha Bonnet, Morgan Stanley.

Natasha Banoori

analyst
#9

The first one would be, could you please give us some color on the performances by cluster for the Moncler brand but also in terms of volume price mix able pricing was low single digit in Q2. And then the second one, has -- did you see any difference in trends throughout the quarter per month? And anything you can give us on current trends you've seen so far? What's the mood like in Q3 for these first few weeks.

Luciano Santel

executive
#10

Okay. Thank you for your question. About the cluster, cluster cost nationalities. I can tell you that Chinese and Americas were positive. Koreans and Japanese rates and Europe, of course, negative single-digit about the contribution of price volume in the second quarter, pricing was predominant volumes were flat issues likely negative in the second quarter, in the first quarter. As you may remember, they were positive about the second quarter, we reported a slightly negative volumes Something about the okay. The quarter has been a good not great, but a good, very good in the first 2 months of the quarter. Honestly, April and May were both a very good month of the quarter. June softer. Much softer due to an evident and a clear decline in traffic in all the different regions. Something we observed in June was a behavior of the customers of people that is more and more they buy now well now. I mean this is something different from the past that we started seeing a couple of years ago. Last year and this year, even higher than last year. That, of course, implies a little bit delay in purchasing of the following season. On the other hand, the good news, not visible in the results, but strategically very good for us for the management team is that in all the 3 months of the quarter, equally April, May, but also June, the 3 summer collection performed well performed very well. Of course, the very good performance of summer collection in June was not enough to offset the decline in the pointer collection. But again, it is still a very good and [indiscernible] because, as you know, as you said, I mean, the effort and the investment we made for this collection was only the first but a very important set of the non-ore project that, of course, we see Moncler more intentionally, even more [indiscernible] next year. Something I said during the presentation that, of course, impacted the slowdown in traffic, most in evident significant decline to this that, of course, impacted euro EMEA more than the other region. But of course, this an explanation, not only of the softer results in a year, but also of the software results overall. And this is something we saw again mostly in June. Remember that our business historically with the tourist was still is very important. In the second quarter, mostly in the quarter, much less in Q4 and Q1. But this year, even more than last year, we faced a decline in tourism coming from Asia and from America to Europe.

Operator

operator
#11

Next question is from Anna-Laure Bismuth, HSBC.

Anne-Laure Jamain

analyst
#12

My first question is on the speed between space and like-for-like in Q2, would it be possible to have an indication of what was the space contribution in Q2? And how should we think about it in the second half of the year and full year? And then my second question is about the U.S. So we have seen strong performance across the few companies that have already reported is slightly [indiscernible]. Is it only linked to the normal seasonality of the business and all the campaign was received the stringer campaign was used in the U.S.? And maybe a last one, still be the U.S. So when you have the big flagship company in New York in September, and even we haven't had in [indiscernible] since October 2024. Should we expect a genome that opening or a different concept that you will deploy around that? Thank you very much

Luciano Santel

executive
#13

Okay. Thank you for your question. First question, I mean, of course, you know that we don't report this information by quarter not because, I mean, we have something to hide, but because the space contribution in 1 quarter is honestly not particularly meaningful I can tell you that for the year-end, we plan for this year in line with the water we said, and I'm sure you remember, in about a 4% space contribution. Of course, in the quarter was slightly below. But again, nothing particularly important honestly. And about the performance in America, again, I wanted to highlight that we report, of course, is the weighted average between wholesale and that needless to say, most changes driven by our deliveries plan. Of course, in America, there is a, I will say, business is with the department stores with the [indiscernible] and now is out of the [indiscernible], but I mean no study shot. Of course, we delivered less than what we could deliver. But what is very important to night is that the DTC business was higher than that. So overall, I don't know. I mean I do know, but I mean it's meaningless to compare Moncler with other brands that for sure have become more relevant in that region the [indiscernible] Moncler is now. But in any event, I can tell you that our growth rate in North America and in the U.S. specifically, is something we are happy with and encouraging to keep investing in that country.

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#14

What Luciano said, I think we discussed it probably last few calls as well about the journey, the brand is into the U.S., right? So I think we can even correlate this to probably the last 2 calls we have I think the chance that we are happy with the results we have. That said, I think it's important to keep reminding ourselves that this journey in terms of the level of maturity and awareness that we have in the U.S. is very different from what we have in Europe and in Asia. Therefore, we keep seeing this as the opportunity and the challenge in terms of execution. I will say, you mentioned something about -- specifically about spring summer or the campaign. I think I will reinforce what we kind of said, we are happy. I think things work well. For us, of course, sometimes we expect more to go to into that potential. I think as we discussed at the beginning of the year, we just come at the first 3 months of the year with execution we did in Aspen, the opening of the new [indiscernible] store. And of course, we're going to September when we'll open [indiscernible] and Moncler's biggest store in the world. Of course, the expectation here is, again, building blocks towards that opportunity to unlock that market. Again, we don't believe in today's world, that there's a silver bullet that will unlock everything in one go. I think what we're doing right now is, of course, working heavily in terms of leveraging the opening of the store in the context of something that is an offense altogether for the U.S. across all the different touch points. So in a nutshell, I think I could understand more or less some comments about these type of genius or something. Again, we will open this call, as I mentioned before, in September. We are working to that for a few months now. We are excited about what you come. But personally, I would say on behalf of the team, we're equally excited about the journey we're embarking into and something we started on the back of last year, beginning of this year. Of course, results are positive. We expect more. We all want more, but we have to do the work and build a stronger foundation and will come as a consequence season of the season.

Operator

operator
#15

Next question is from Thomas Chauvet, Citi. Next question is from Luca Solca, Bernstein.

Luca Solca

analyst
#16

Maybe a stupid question, but you do have a global retail network. And I would like you to maybe help me understand how is it that tourists not coming to Europe caused you a dent in revenue growth? How come that these tourists cannot be recaptured elsewhere in Asia or in America? Is it because maybe they exploit the big geographic price differences and so that you continue to have a significant price gap between Europe and Asia? I wonder. My second question, given that we have the pleasure of having Leo on the call, I was wondering if Leo after 3 months on top of appreciating the great strengths that the Moncler Group has, if you identified any specific areas where you could potentially bring your experience and improve how the company performs? And which would be these areas?

Luciano Santel

executive
#17

Luca, your first question is very good and right question. Actually, I may have been not precise, but my comment about tourism flow was mainly related to Europe, to explain the soft performance of Europe that's unfortunately something we have been facing for a while because also previous quarters were not particularly good for Europe. But you are right, I think that people that did not come to Europe purchased in their local markets. But I think that this is also the reason why Asia was so good, because plus 12%, honestly, I believe it is quite remarkable. It's not the over 20% of the first quarter, but I think that nobody expected to replicate that, let me say, unusual number due to the Chinese New Year, whatever. So 12%, mostly driven again by China, Korea and, to a lower extent, but still positive single digit, by Japan. And the same for the U.S. So again, you are right, I mean, in part because, of course, it's difficult to provide a scientific answer. But I think you are right.

Elena Mariani

executive
#18

And on the -- yes, on the second question, I mean, of course, Leo will share some thoughts. Clearly, there will be then look at dedicated opportunities in the coming quarters to meet him and discuss all these broader topics with the time and attention that they deserve. So here tonight, we will focus on Q2. But Leo, over to you for some thoughts.

Leo Rongone

executive
#19

Yes, of course, I can share a bit of color, and thank you for the question, Luca. So as was mentioned before, together with extraordinary abilities that are very clear in this group, I've also noticed a few opportunities we're going to develop. So based on your question, I'm going to stick to your curiosity, let's say, on the clients. And I would say that for sure, Moncler clients, let's say, frequently rank among top spenders in other brands in the luxury industry. And we have demonstrated in the past years to be able to talk to large audiences, wide audiences. So a clear opportunity that I see and, for sure, would be a key focus starting for both brands on this is that we can translate this ability into something which is more curated, let's say, allowing this trend into more direct, more frequent personal interactions with our VICs. I'm sure that this dedication to key clients will further nurture our business globally, especially in those countries we have -- where we see today high potential to express our business.

Operator

operator
#20

Next question is from Daria Nasledysheva, Bank of America.

Daria Nasledysheva

analyst
#21

This is Daria from Bank of America. Thank you for taking my questions; I have 2. First one would be on profitability with 19% EBIT margin in 1H and actually 60 basis points higher excluding the one-off. Could you please share any comment on margin outlook for the full year considering the cost control that you have exhibited? Consensus currently models just 10 basis points improvement on the year. And my second one, sorry for this question, but can I please quickly follow up on the current trading? You have very helpfully answered on the shape of the quarter. Should we assume June trends continuing into July? Or has there been any sort of inflection since?

Luciano Santel

executive
#22

Thank you, Daria, for your question about the profitability I'm sorry, but our usual answer is that we don't know, but simply because operating profitability is totally mostly dependent and driven by the top line, which is difficult to predict. Of course, first half of the year, profitability was good for 2 main reasons. One is what you said, because, I mean, our attention to cost control is quite high. And we tend and we all work to become more and more efficient in everything we do. But the other important point is that the top line in the second quarter was fairly good, but it was much better and very good in the first quarter; that also is much more relevant than the second quarter. So this is what made profitability -- operating profitability very good, but as you pointed out, taking out the one-off would have been significantly higher than last year. What may it be for the year-end is difficult to say. Of course, as you know, we have not a target, but an ambition, a goal to protect our profitability that over the past years has been in the region of 29%, 29-plus percent. And this is still our ambition. But honestly, difficult to predict now what may be. It will totally depend again on the top line in the second half of the year that, of course, needless to tell you is the most important half of the year. About the current trading, I mean, nothing to highlight more than what I said. June was softer than the first 2 months of the quarter. July, I mean, we have only 2 weeks behind us. I mean beginning was in line with June, and then a little bit better. But please don't make me comment business results of yesterday or the current trend of today because it will be totally, totally meaningless. Again, from the qualitative point of view, we see, and let me say again, there are 2 factors. One is negative for the result of this period of the year, that is the buy now, wear now approach behavior of people, of customers. But the other that is very positive, because strategically it is extremely important for the brand and for the future and for our project, is the very good performance in April, May, June, and also for what it was the first 2 weeks of July of our spring/summer collection. So this is something that, sorry to say it again, but it is something we are very happy with, okay?

Operator

operator
#23

Next question is from Oriana Cardani, Intesa Sanpaolo.

Oriana Cardani

analyst
#24

The first one concerns the share of new customers within the overall customer base. What percentage of the total did new customer represent for Moncler and the Stone Island in the first half of the year? Should the strong momentum for Stone Island be attributed to the acquisition of new customers or to an increase in the value of existing customers? And the second question is on sales contribution and price effect. Could you already provide some guidance regarding these 2 drivers for 2027 in particular? What are your expectations regarding the price increases for next year?

Elena Mariani

executive
#25

Oriana, on your first question about customers, I didn't get it if you were asking specifically about Stone Island or both brands. Maybe I can just give you some color on Moncler. I think this is a figure that we provide typically on a yearly basis. We don't give Q1, H1. But what we have been seeing over the past few years, and it's been pretty stable, is that about 50% of our revenues are coming from new customers. About 50% of our revenues is coming from existing customers that are already loyal to the brand. From the point of view of numbers, we are slightly more skewed towards new customers. It's about 60-40, 60% new, 40% existing. Of course, this means that the loyal customers, the existing ones, are spending a little bit more. But the share of revenues is equally split. And Gino, maybe you want to add.

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#26

No, I think, Oriana, the only color commentary there is beyond the factual data that I shared with you, of course, the opportunity regarding new customers around spring/summer is a real opportunity. I think as we were mentioning before, this is something that, as a reminder, this spring/summer was executed deeply in a few doors of our entire network. We will keep increasing this. This is driving a new interest and the new customers into the brand. So spring/summer, again, if you were referring to this Q2, we have good reception from existing clients. But of course, it's allowing us to start capturing new demand and new clients into the brand and even some specifics that hopefully we'll start sharing later about gender behavior, et cetera, regarding the product proposition we have around spring/summer.

Elena Mariani

executive
#27

And on Stone Island, I mean, as you can see from our numbers, it's a very nice balance between capturing new customers and also keep cultivating our loyal familia. I think that for Stone, this is very consistent with the strategy that we have. So keep a very strong connection with our loyal audience, but also adding new and recruiting new customers into the brand. And on this, I mean, results, as you know, are very organic. All the retail KPIs on Stone Island are positive, very encouragingly. It's a very high-quality growth coming from just the underlying development of the brand. As you know, there is no space. And so we are seeing both type of customers buying into the brand.

Luciano Santel

executive
#28

And Oriana, about your question about expectation on pricing, I understand that you are talking about Moncler. Moncler, for 2027, honestly, it's quite premature and early to give you a precise number. I can tell you as a rough indication that we expect space to be still in the region of 4% and the pricing based on the current production cost increase and the current level of currencies, of course, should remain low to mid-single digit. Of course, any more precise indication will be provided in the next future when we have a better understanding of what may happen next year.

Operator

operator
#29

Next question is from Melania Grippo, BNP Paribas.

Melania Grippo

analyst
#30

This is Melania Grippo from BNP Paribas. Congratulations to Mr. Rongone on your appointment. So my first question is on online. I understand this is performing a little bit weak, and I remember it was also the case in Q1. I mean anything -- is there anything specific happening to this channel? Is there anything that you can say around it? And my other question is on the spring/summer collection. I actually had the opportunity to visit some of your stores in the past week. And it seems to me that, yes, there were not too many products that you could -- that would be worn immediately. So I was wondering whether you intend to change the cadence of the deliveries to give more floor space to spring/summer products.

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#31

I think on the first on online, just I think Luciano mentioned a bit this before, but I think the reality of the picture of online, I will almost tell it in 2 halves. I think we have a weaker performance in Europe from the beginning of the year. So this is something we saw in Q1 and Q2, while the other part of -- or the other regions have been performing in par or, even in some cases, better than physical retail. So I think this is a bit of the context. I think we have a good performance in the U.S., in the Americas, solid performance in all the different Asian markets. I think in Europe, specifically, we are seeing a bit of a softer demand and a bit of a softer traffic, while the other regions is exactly the opposite. So right now, as you can imagine, we're working through those details. We understand that there's opportunity for us to do better in certain markets within Europe. But again, I will say the overall picture is almost 2 halves. It's Europe and the rest of the world with very disparate performances between Europe and the rest. Regarding spring/summer, I think it's a great question. And I think I want to go back to a few comments we make at the beginning. This spring/summer for us was, as I mentioned before, the first ever, right, effort. And I think the other important reminder is when we execute this initiative, we literally use a small percentage of our retail network to fully deploy the collection and everything we have done around summer because we really wanted to learn about this, as I mentioned before, was the very first step. In some cases, we found out that some of the styles and the new products were performing quickly pretty well, better than we were expecting. And then, of course, I think this is, as you mentioned before, I think as you were going into June, we're already having pre-fall and in some of the stores, they started to have a more fall type of assortment versus a bit more of a spring/summer. I think as you mentioned before, this is -- what I mentioned today, we are taking the learnings of this spring/summer as we go to next year as well. One of the areas we're focusing more is to make sure that our offering will be not only relevant as we believe we have the product, but even extended to make sure that we can cover the season on entirely and not having a specific push on the very beginning of the season and then run back into old behavior. So again, take it as we said at the beginning, we are happy. At the same time, we are the first one to know that we have tons to do and tons to improve, and this is part of the process.

Operator

operator
#32

Next question is from Erwan Rambourg, Goldman Sachs.

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#33

Welcome to Leo Rongone and thanks for your enthusiasm. So 2 questions on my side. First, given the magnitude of the New York opening and potential events around it, maybe, Luciano, can you mention what influence it has? Will it be visible on the cost base? And do you have any other major openings that are planned in H2 that could weigh on the cost base? And then secondly, can you talk maybe about Korea, South Korea, how relevant it is in terms of Asia growth given the wealth creation we've seen recently? What is the weight of Korea? Is it relevant? Is it a real standout? Or is the growth in Asia really broad-based?

Luciano Santel

executive
#34

Starting from Korea. Korea represents about 10% of our business overall. It is still growing very nicely. Remember that Korea has been very strong for Moncler since many, many years ago, even during COVID. Korea was the only region that was growing and kept growing in 2020, 2021. And so again, last year, there was some kind of slowdown in Korea, but this year is still growing, with very, very high sales density. But again, I'm saying that because we keep growing, but of course, we start -- we have a base of comparison that is quite important. About New York Fifth Avenue cost impact, let me see if I understand the question because, of course, there will be an important cost impact associated with the cost of the store, with the rent and with the cost of people that will operate that store. We don't disclose the cost, but let me say again that, for sure, it is an important cost. Of course, what we expect from that store is to perform very well. This may not be 100% the case in the first 3 months after opening of 2026. But of course, we have great expectations for that store in the next years. But please tell me if I understood correctly your question.

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#35

No, I was wondering if it had an impact in terms of the weight of H1 versus H2 in terms of your cost base relative to a normal year. I was also wondering if you had other big projects that were lined up for H2 outside of this New York opening.

Luciano Santel

executive
#36

Yes. So there are other projects, but for sure, this is the most important one. Of course, all the expenses associated with New York as well as all the stores are reported in selling expenses. And so again, it will depend how much will be the top line and, as a result, how much will be the productivity of the store. There might be some dilution, maybe, but I don't know, honestly. But nothing I need to highlight right now because I don't know. Also, again, I expect the first weeks after opening to be good, I hope. But for sure, not as much as we expect the store to perform after 1 year and after 2 years, okay?

Operator

operator
#37

Next question is from Charles-Louis Scotti, Kepler.

Charles-Louis Scotti

analyst
#38

I have 2. The first one on Stone Island, which delivered a very strong performance in the first half. Could you please elaborate on what explains the relative underperformance in EMEA? I would assume the brand is less exposed to tourist flows than Moncler. And also now that the wholesale to retail transition has largely been completed and the brand momentum appears particularly strong, does this give you greater confidence to accelerate store openings in line with the ambitions you initially outlined at your Capital Market Day a few years ago? And secondly, on licensing, if I'm not mistaken, your fragrance licensing agreement with Interparfums expires in December this year. There is an option to extend it for another 5 years. Has the decision already been made regarding the renewal? And more broadly, would you consider entering into a long-term licensing agreement with a bigger player such as L'Oreal, for example, and allocating maybe a less selective distribution strategy in order to build a much larger beauty business as many of your peers have done?

Luciano Santel

executive
#39

About Stone Island, Stone performance was very good. To your point, in Europe, less than in other regions, for sure. But I mean, Europe for sure at this time, we discussed a lot about Moncler, but I think for all the brands, Europe right now is not particularly a strong region. There is a slowdown in demand. And this is what makes the growth rate of Stone Island good but not strong, not as much as in other regions. Also in the region, in Europe, there is a very important relevant wholesale business that is under review, under, let me say, scrutiny because we keep selecting that channel, we keep selecting the best wholesale doors, and of course, this implies a negative impact in terms of wholesale doors. But I mean, overall, the organic growth even in Europe is good, is very good. Talking about the future and how much the current momentum may imply, let me say, a distribution growth over the next years. I believe that, I mean, for the time being, to the best of our knowledge, we don't have very important plans of new openings for 2027. And so our approach, our strategic approach, will still be to make our channel, that channel to grow organically. But of course, maybe next year, during next year and, hopefully, the year after, we may start to open still on a selective basis some additional stores. But we want first to make sure that the brand achieves a relevant top line and significant sales diversity. Other question is?

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#40

Yes. Charles-Louis, I think shortly, I think, yes, it's true, our license expired regarding fragrances. I think we decided together to put a pause for a second and decide our next step. And I think this is the process we are in right now in full transparency. And I think for us, as a brand always is, in this case, is being extremely selective in terms of the strategy we have and try to make sure that we have a relevant proposition at the highest level in the market. So more to come, but thank you for the question. We're in the process of reevaluating the best next step forward. Thank you.

Operator

operator
#41

Next question is from Carole Madjo, Barclays.

Carole Madjo

analyst
#42

A couple of questions from me as well, please. The first one on spring/summer. Can you come back on how much of your offering in store in Q2 was spring/summer compared to being your classic fall/winter offering? And how should we think about the split evolving in the year to come? Second question, similar question, still on the spring/summer. Any comment on the economics of the spring/summer versus fall/winter in terms of basket size, sales density? Anything to keep in mind here around that? And last quick question. To come back on your comment on see now, buy now, what do you think is the reason behind this trend? Have you seen it across all the key markets? Or is it maybe a bit more in place in Europe where there was really hot weather in June? So any comment around this see now, buy now trend and how long do you think it can last going forward? Could be interesting.

Luciano Santel

executive
#43

Okay. The first one about spring/summer impact in terms of product in second quarter, for sure, April, very important; May, very important. In June, we start to deliver to our stores the pre-fall or I mean the first delivery of the fall/winter season. So overall, spring/summer is predominant in the second quarter. But in June, as I said before, fall/winter season is important too. About economics, I mean, some of your questions, something that we don't look at, honestly. I mean I can tell you that spring/summer collection did very well in terms of conversion rate because this is something that we monitor and we look at specifically for spring/summer, also in terms of basket, in terms of UPP. But in terms of sales density, honestly, it's quite premature to give you numbers also because, again, this was -- this year the very first, let me say, intentional investment that we made in the -- for this season. About, I mean, you said see now, buy now. Actually, what I said is slightly different, is buy now, wear now. I mean see now, buy now is the behavior we saw in the past, honestly, when some people coming to the store wanted to buy prematurely a product of fall/winter season because they saw them, they liked them and they bought them, even though they knew that they could wear them in September, October, November. What I said is the buy now, wear now. So they may see the collection, but they prefer to buy the collection in season. And so they buy now what they can wear now. And so product that for sure is lighter, again, a spring/summer product, and this is one component of the good result of the summer and, of course, fall/winter product too, but to a lower extent as compared to the past.

Carole Madjo

analyst
#44

Yes. Sorry, I meant just what you said, buy now, wear now. And do you see this trend across all the key markets or just in some particular regions?

Luciano Santel

executive
#45

Yes. This is the trend that we saw in all the markets. Honestly, this is across the markets. Of course, in some markets, less than others, and this is demonstrated by the results. I mean in Asia, we do see this approach, this behavior. But of course, the results are very good and much better than in other regions. Of course, in Europe, this, together with, as I said before, the tourism, the decline in tourism, made the number of Europe negative. But the buy now, wear now behavior is something we see across the different regions.

Operator

operator
#46

Next question is from Chris Gao, CLSA.

Chris Gao

analyst
#47

Thanks for taking my questions; I have 2. So my first question is also about the buy now, wear now behavior. So just wondering if the consumer behavior will continue, does it mean that more demand of your fall/winter products will shift from June to the second half of the year, maybe in the winter? And if that will be the case, for your store-level plans, events, what could be your plan ahead of your peak season to better drive the sales? And also, would you do something in terms of your supply to make sure when people come to buy now, wear now during the peak season, you have enough of the inventory to supply so that you won't see the shortage of supply? This is the first question. My second question is regarding Stone Island. We have been seeing a very strong B2C growth here. So could you help us break down a little bit about the contribution of volume, mix, pricing at the back of the strong B2C growth? And also, how should we look at the midterm EBIT margin trajectory? How will it contribute to the group EBIT margin elevation?

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#48

Chris, I will take the first one. Good to hear your voice. I think, again, a few things. I don't think we need to overdo what we are discussing about buy now, wear now. Of course, we are obsessed about trying to understand customer behavior, right? And that's what we do every single day and try to understand what's going on. And I think as Luciano said, we see a bit of this starting last year and this year. This doesn't mean for us a radical change in the way we do business, right? I think, of course, we still have customers who come to us and buy when we launch pre-fall and we launch fall and winter later in September, et cetera, et cetera. Of course, opportunity for us, as we discussed already, is to extend our offering as we go into spring/summer, have that opportunity to understand that spring/summer can be even a bit longer than we originally planned. But then, of course, we keep leveraging the core of our business, as we have been doing and improving it every time we come. I think what we are trying to do in the context of this conversation is to share a bit of the behavior we're seeing right now. But again, none of those things will radically change today the way we are doing business. But of course, what we do is try to monitor day by day the learnings we can get from customers and see if there's a certain slight delay in terms of weeks, but not a dramatic change there.

Luciano Santel

executive
#49

Chris, about your question on Stone Island, the growth rate, of course, implies a growth in volumes, for sure. But also the second component is price/mix, and not the price itself because we didn't increase the prices significantly, again, about low single digit. But what it was and still is quite important is the price/mix impact, due to a continuing shift in the categories we sell. You may remember the long story that in the recent past, I mean at the time of the acquisition, business was doing very well, but mostly driven by entry price categories like freshirts, like T-shirts. And right now, I mean right now, the day after the acquisition, we decided strategically to reinvest in the categories that made the origin, the identity of the brand that are outerwear and [ midwear ]. These categories now are performing very well, and the contribution of outerwear is way higher than what it was a few years ago. And this, of course, implies a higher average selling price. Talking about profitability, needless to tell you that growing organically as Stone Island is doing implies a better operating profitability and a higher opportunity to increase that profitability. Having said that, of course, I mean, it is still a long journey also because, I mean, profitability -- the profitability, as you know, is driven by the sales density. So sales density for Stone Island is much better than 1 year ago, that was better than the year before, but still not at the level we want and we believe that the brand can achieve. But in any event, yes, with such organic growth rate, if this will continue as we hope, profitability will improve.

Operator

operator
#50

Next question is from [ Jean Daniel ], ODDO BHF.

Unknown Analyst

analyst
#51

I wanted to come back on a point raised by Carole on the mix between spring/summer and pre-fall and fall/winter during Q2 and Q3. Could you tell us historically how much of the sales in Q2, Q3 were driven by fall/winter compared to spring/summer? And I suppose this mix must be shifting pretty rapidly.

Luciano Santel

executive
#52

I understand your question. I mean we don't disclose in details this kind of information, honestly. I can tell you that in Q2, spring/summer is extremely important and more important than fall/winter. In Q3, spring/summer is less important than fall/winter simply because we sell spring/summer in July, in August, in September, our most relevant sales start to be with full winter season. So again, this is the pattern of our business. April, May, spring/summer, June, we start with the fall/winter. July is still a mix of the 2. August, more or less the same, September predominantly fall/winter season.

Elena Mariani

executive
#53

And Jean, just as a reminder, I mean, we provide an indication for the full year in terms of sales. Last year, we had about 25% spring/summer sales versus 75% fall/winter. I mentioned this in the past, but it's worth reminding everyone that actually the share of summer -- spring/summer has slightly increased sequentially over the past few years. And the only thing that I would add to what has already been disclosed is that, as you might imagine, particularly in Europe, when you have tourists coming to buy, often, not all the time, but of course, if you have Asian customers coming to Europe, sometimes in July, August, given that we have pre-delivered fall/winter in the past, perhaps they were anticipating the purchase. And so given that we are proceeding and feeling this lack of tourists in Europe, this has been felt a bit more in this region.

Operator

operator
#54

Next question is from James Grzinic, Jefferies.

James Grzinic

analyst
#55

Congratulations also from me to Leo on his appointment. I just have a quick one, particularly given the time. Gino, on your point that only a small percentage of the retail network carried the full spring/summer offer in Q2, can you perhaps share what proportion exactly of the retail network did have the full assortment? And I'm wondering, are there any constraints on merchandising the full offer really driven by average store size that you're looking to overcome maybe for next year?

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#56

Thank you for the question because you allow me to clarify something. So what I meant is, of course, the collection, the full collection was spread out across the entire network. When I talk about a certain part of the network was the full experience around spring/summer. I think if you look about this, this is not a collection that we put on a specific jacket, a specific knitwear, specific cut and so on. This was almost around 2024 looks full of like layering. So what we tried to do was, while the collection was spread out everywhere, is in this x amount of stores that we have and a percentage of these stores was the full execution. And again, it's where you were able to see the whole layering system, where you were able to see the whole collection, where having not only windows but e-store execution, where the whole customer experience was regarding this layering system in the way it was approaching the retail experience. So that's what I meant when we said, for us, it's very important that we are, as always, trying to learn from what we do, knowing that this is entering a different behavior for us as a company and a different behavior that we're asking customers to start looking at ourselves. So that's why for us is while the product was spread out and available in the entire network, for us, it was very important to take the lessons and learn from the stores that we want full execution. And this is something that you will see gradually as we go season after season. Not only the product and the offering will get better, but in terms of the experience it will provide for customers. And I think this is something that when Luca was asking Leo about opportunities there, I think he was mentioning about how we can even elevate our experience at retail, especially into VICs. This is something that we will keep evolving, not only in terms of the network and the amount of doors we have, but even in the experience we will provide around that.

Operator

operator
#57

Next question is from Paola Carboni, Equita SIM.

Paola Carboni

analyst
#58

Just 2 follow-ups for me. The first one is about Korea, which was mentioned as one of the main drivers for the DTC performance of Moncler in APAC. But at the same time, the Korean cluster was mentioned as flat. So if you can comment a little bit here about the different behavior of tourists in the country and local customers and the different weight this have in your revenues there, and what you expect or what you see as a future evolution of this region? And a second question, lastly, is about the initiatives for Q4. You have surprised yourself in the last few years with different events or a very powerful marketing campaign of last year. I was wondering if you can [indiscernible] something, not in detail, but at least let us understand how -- I mean, the magnitude of your efforts we should expect for the core winter season going forward.

Luciano Santel

executive
#59

Yes, Paola. Your first question about Korea, you are totally right, Korea cluster is flattish, but Korea market performed very well, which implies that apparently they didn't travel as much as in the past. Honestly, I don't know why. I can tell you that this is a trend I saw also in some publication, if I remember correctly, [ Global Blue ]. But in any event, Korea business with Korean in Europe is down as compared -- significantly down as compared to last year. But the business with them in their local market is good. And so at the end, the cluster is more or less stable, but with this peculiarity, as I told you.

Elena Mariani

executive
#60

The only thing I wanted to add is that, of course, we've captured Asian tourists into Korea. And so the fact that Korea was the strongest market that we've had in Asia is reflecting both good local consumption, but also tourists going into the country. And a lot of the explanation, as you know, comes down to FX.

Paola Carboni

analyst
#61

And can you please -- sorry. I was wondering if you can add the exposure to local demand in Korea versus inbound tourism.

Luciano Santel

executive
#62

I mean, of course, I'm not providing numbers, Paola, but I can tell you that in Q1, the inbound tourism from China was quite relevant. Second quarter much less. But in any event, demand in Korea from locals is good, is very good. I mean there is -- I mean, this is common to other brands, as you know, and as far as I know, as I understand. And this is due to several different factors, including, let me say, the wealth effect, but also the fact that Moncler brand in Korea has been since ever and, of course, it is now very, very strong. So again, long story short, very strong demand in Korea, let me say, mostly from locals in the second quarter, and a much weaker, significantly weaker business with Korean customers in Europe.

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#63

Paola, I will quickly answer your second question regarding Q4. First of all, I was happy to hear that you said that we keep surprising you every year in the past few years in Q4. We will try to keep that promise up. We will try to keep surprising you with the work we will deliver. I think, as you know well, I think we are talking today a lot about the work we're doing in spring/summer and all the different initiatives we have. That is always an add-on on top of what we will do always around Q4 and our core season. So I think it's important to remind ourselves. Of course, I cannot share the deals, but we feel confident about what we have planned for the second half of the year. I will say, just to tease a bit more, if you like, I just mentioned that in September, we'll be opening the flagship store in New York. And from thereon, you will see kind of a relentless approach towards the end of the year and beginning of '27. So count on us again on trying to surprise you again, and then you will tell me.

Operator

operator
#64

Next question is from Piral Dadhania, RBC.

Piral Dadhania

analyst
#65

So my first question is just on the gross margin, please. Could you help us walk through the main moving parts? We would have thought that maybe there was a bit more margin optionality given the positive regional mix, the positive channel mix and likely Grenoble outperforming the mainland collection. So could you just help us understand where those headwinds come from? I imagine it's probably to do with raw materials and inflation, but any help there would be useful. And my second question is just on -- again, sorry, coming back to spring/summer and the way you set the business up. If we read between the lines, is it fair to say that perhaps the inventory availability and the risk-taking wasn't as high as it could have been. And therefore, there was kind of a product availability issue for some customers in store, which impacted conversion, and that's something that you will address with perhaps better or higher inventory levels next year? Is that the right way to think about what you've been saying this evening?

Luciano Santel

executive
#66

Okay. About gross margin, I mean, the improvement of gross margin is totally driven by channel mix. Gross margin overall, I mean, the impact, there are several different factors impacting gross margin. Honestly, nothing material to highlight. Of course, markup was substantially in line with last year. The need of reserve for obsolescence was substantially in line with last year. I mean some negative impact of FX, of course. But again, honestly, nothing particularly relevant to highlight. Of course, when I'm talking about channel mix, that was positive. This implies both brands because, again, at this point, not only channel mix of Moncler, but also the impact of channel mix of Stone Island that I mean has been growing in the first half of the year, mostly in the DTC business. About your...

Gino Fisanotti

executive
#67

I'm happy -- again, I'm happy just to give you a short answer there. I think the question just on channel for us was more about there was a feeling, a sensation that we were maybe short of inventory on certain things if we didn't take the enough risk. I would say the answer is for me is a bit the opposite. I think there was a risk that we took, but it was a calculated risk. I think -- I want to go back in perspective. I think when you think about it, it's the very first real effort against spring/summer in almost 75 years of the company. So again, it wasn't easy for us to think that on the communication, on the message, on the approach, on siding, on the amount of different [ classifications ], it's not that simple to put all that together and then go pull on into an uncalculated risk. So the risk was there. I strongly believe that we like to be on this scenario versus the opposite scenario of having a lot of inventory and not able to connect with customers. So I think what we have been saying for the entire call is we're very happy with the results. We have good results, not only in terms of the performance of the collection, but even as brand overall that gives us the confidence to keep building into this. And for us, I think we always said from day 1, this is a building block. We don't have a silver bullet that can make us spring/summer relevant in the first season. And again, as I mentioned before, we feel more confident being on this side of maybe we were short of certain items and we didn't have enough inventory than being on the other side of this conversation.

Operator

operator
#68

Next question is from Thomas Chauvet, Citi.

Thomas Chauvet

analyst
#69

Can you hear me?

Luciano Santel

executive
#70

Yes, of course.

Thomas Chauvet

analyst
#71

Sorry for the bad connectivity earlier. I hope you can hear me. If not, I'll take this offline. Two quick questions, please. Firstly, coming back to the DTC growth by nationality. The Chinese cohort was up over 20% in Q1. Luciano, you said the cluster was positive in Q2. Can you be a bit more specific? Was it still up double digits? And how did domestic versus offshore compare? And secondly, could you come back to the reasons behind the softer performance in June versus April and May, especially as you started delivering the pre-fall into stores?

Luciano Santel

executive
#72

Yes. Thomas, nice to hear you again. I mean about the nationalities, I mean, China, Chinese cluster was up. Again, let me say yes, yes, double digit. The other nationalities, as I said, Americans also were up, and the Korean and Japanese flattish. And the Europeans, unfortunately, negative. But let me know if I answered your question, yes or not?

Thomas Chauvet

analyst
#73

Yes, yes. Was the Chinese cohort better offshore than onshore? You talked about Chinese and Korea.

Elena Mariani

executive
#74

No, I think it was -- look, it was good both onshore and offshore for us. So there was no particular difference. Let me also take this chance to take the second question because I believe we've been quite clear about the performance over the quarter, June and the reason behind it. I don't know if you were able to follow the entire call, but otherwise, happy to take it offline.

Thomas Chauvet

analyst
#75

Okay. We'll take it offline. It's quite late. Yes, I did follow the call, but I want some clarification. We can discuss that in a few moments, Elena.

Operator

operator
#76

The next question is from Chiara Battistini, JPMorgan.

Chiara Battistini

analyst
#77

I have just 2 very quick follow-up questions, actually. The first one, on profitability on the second half of the year. Rather than talking about profitability, thinking about the OpEx development in H2. You delivered very tight cost control in H1. Should we extrapolate that into H2 or should we think about an acceleration of OpEx? And to that, when thinking about the New York opening, I'm guessing that the rents are already in the OpEx base, so it would be an acceleration of employees, but not rents. Am I correct? And the second question, just to come back on the like-for-like very quickly on Q2. I know you don't comment on quarterly like-for-likes, but just trying to square the 7% for H1. Is it fair to assume that like-for-like in Q2 was positive and actually space was negatively impacted by online?

Luciano Santel

executive
#78

So about OpEx, in the second half of the year, we don't see any material significant element to highlight. As I said before, let me think, as I said before, the one-off will be much, much smaller. It will be about EUR 2 million, slightly less than EUR 2 million, as compared to the EUR 8 million we reported in the first half. Talking about selling expenses, I mean, you are totally right about the rent New York. For any store we open, we start report in our results the rent cost at the time we take over the store, so independently on when we open the store. And of course, something I didn't highlight, but the rents without revenues is a metric we monitor, and in the first half of the year was quite important and higher than last year. So honestly, at this point, to the best of my knowledge in the second half of the year, I don't see any significant element. Of course, there might be elements that are very volatile and so very difficult to predict associated with the cost of energy because, I mean, honestly, right now, apparently is better than what we expected just a couple of months ago. But I mean, this is a completely open issue. But this may be a risk. But right now, we don't assess that risk as particularly material. The other question?

Elena Mariani

executive
#79

I think you've asked about the like-for-like in the second quarter.

Luciano Santel

executive
#80

Like-for-like in the second quarter, of course, we don't disclose this number, but let me give you some qualitative answer. The first quarter was very, very good. And so 7% is the weighted average of a very, very good comp in the first quarter and much less in the second quarter. So this is -- and was also the -- there was another question, I don't remember.

Elena Mariani

executive
#81

No, I think it was the last one. So yes, I mean, just slightly positive is a good assumption. We are generous today.

Operator

operator
#82

Ms. Mariani, there are no more questions registered at this time.

Elena Mariani

executive
#83

All right. Thank you very much to everyone. Just a quick reminder of the next release. Our Q3 2026 results will be released on October 21, post market close. And our quiet period will start on September 22. Thank you again. For any follow-up questions, as usual, you can contact me any time. Have a great evening. And for those of you going on holiday, we wish you a wonderful summer break. Thank you.

Operator

operator
#84

Ladies and gentlemen, thank you for joining. The conference is now over. You may disconnect your telephones.

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