SMCP S.A. (SMCP) Earnings Call Transcript & Summary

July 29, 2020

ENXTPA FR Consumer Discretionary Specialty Retail trading_statement 47 min

Earnings Call Speaker Segments

Operator

operator
#1

Hello and welcome to the SMCP Q2 Sales Publication Conference Call. My name is Molly, and I'll be your coordinator for today's event. Please note that this call is being recorded. [Operator Instructions] I would now like to hand the call over to Célia d'Everlange to begin today's conference. Thank you.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#2

Thank you. Good morning, everyone. This is Célia d'Everlange, Head of IR, speaking. Thank you for being with us today for SMCP Q2 sales publication. I'm here with CEO, Daniel Lalonde; and CFO, Philippe Gautier. As usual, we will go through the presentation, and then we'll have the Q&A session. Before I hand it over to Daniel and Philippe, I invite you to go through our usual disclaimer on Page 2. And I think we can start now, Daniel?

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#3

All right. Thank you, Célia, and good morning, everyone. Thank you for being with us this morning. I'll begin with a quick overview of Q2 2020 and an update on COVID-19 situation, and Philippe will detail our sales performance by region. As you've seen from the press release, Q2 2020 sales have been, as anticipated, strongly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. However, the performance is overall in line with our expectations; even slightly better. In Q2 2020, SMCP sales were down 45.8% on a reported basis and down 47% on an organic basis, i.e., excluding De Fursac and at constant foreign exchange. This performance includes a gradual improvement throughout the quarter on the back of store openings ; the continued recovery in Mainland China, which returned to growth -- positive growth in June; and last, a strong acceleration in e-commerce with 32% of sales growth, starting from a high base of 15% penetration at the end of last year. All of these elements are obviously encouraging. Business trends are moving in the right direction. However, we remain cautious as the recovery continues to be slow and gradual. While our conversion rates in brick-and-mortar were higher than last year, traffic remained weak, notably penalized by a halt in tourism. In parallel, the group opened 8 DOS in Q2, in line with our ambition to be particularly selective this year and focus on Asia. On Page 5, a couple of comments on the current status of our store network and cost mitigation plan to date. So first on stores. Throughout the quarter, we benefited from the gradual reopening of our stores from 20% of stores open at the end of April to 97% at the end of June. The U.K., the U.S. and Singapore remained closed for most of the quarter. Overall, 99% of our directly operated stores are now open, with few stores still closed in the Americas. This is good news even if there exists a risk of further local shutdowns. On sales, the combination of e-commerce and store openings has resulted in a gradual improvement in sales over the period from minus 70% in April to minus -- around about minus 30% in June. However, the lack of tourism continued to weigh on our performance. As you know, we have also decided to launch a strong action plan addressing our cost structure, aiming to mitigate the impacts of COVID-19. I'd like to give you an update on where we stand at the end of H1. So first, on CapEx. We have reduced it meaningfully according to our plan. We have also prioritized essential projects, such as digital, which is and will be a key driver of growth for the future. We've also reduced the pace of openings from around about 35 DOS last year in H1 to only plus 2 DOS in H1 this year. Second, on OpEx. We have optimized our costs by reducing -- optimizing personnel costs, commercial leases and reducing discretionary spending to a minimum. On rent relief, we have made good progress for the first part of the year, and we are now having discussions with our landlords to find solutions for the recovery phase. All in all, in H1, we were able to variabilize 50% of our cost base. Inventories, we reduced purchases in fall/winter '20 collections by more than 30% and applied several adjustments to the mix of the collections. We have also further secured our cash position throughout the -- through the obtention of a French state guaranteed loan amounting to EUR 140 million and additional flexibility on our financial covenants for 2020 and for 2021. And last but not least, our key priority remains ensuring the safety and health of our teams, our customers and all of our partners. So strong progress on costs. We have already secured a big part of our plan. However, we also continue to innovate and launch new initiatives to enhance the desirability of our brands. On Page 6, a couple of initiatives that have been undertaken in line with our road map. So first on digital. We achieved a strong e-commerce performance across the globe. This is the result of successful initiatives to support sales. One example is in China where we posted excellent results for the 6/18 Tmall event. Sales were up 40% versus LY, and we reached more than 2 million visitors and boosted Claudie Pierlot's visibility, leveraging key influencers on live streaming. In parallel, we pursued our omnichannel road map with the launch of unified commerce. Our ambition is to offer a seamless customer experience and complete our omnichannel services with the ship-from-store and 2-hour delivery option. We have just started with Maje France by mutualizing our global inventories and developing the first ship-from-store service. So far, the results are promising. Second, on sustainability, a key priority for this year and beyond. We will present our strategy in a couple of months at our Investor Day. It is based on 3 pillars: products, planet and people. Circular economy is definitely one of the levers that we want to activate by leveraging the expertise of secondhand platforms. On the right part of the slide, one illustration is with Maje. Since its program, First Stone, last year, the brand has continued to commit to an eco-responsible approach. For fall/winter '20, Maje is looking to address the subject of product circularity in all aspects. A collaboration with Vestiaire Collective was initiated a year ago and the brand continued this partnership in an even stronger form by making it part of its campaign message. And thirdly, on Page 7, our Q2 openings. As you can see, we have opened fewer stores than last year, only plus 2 DOS in H1, including several closures in France, versus plus 35 DOS last year in H1. Our approach today is more selective and based on optimizing and enhancing our French network and opening selectively in international markets, mostly in Asia, as we are prioritizing and focusing on like-for-like growth. Here are 3 exciting projects that launched in Q2: a Maje flagship store in Saint Honoré in Paris, which is featuring a new store concept using less furniture and more vintage furniture to promote a more responsible consumption. A Sandro dual gender store in Beijing, our new concept green store using natural materials, stone plaster wall finishes, some natural stone and, of course, LED lighting. And Sandro Shanghai, our first travel retail store in domestic airport of Shanghai Hongqiao Airport. First results are very promising. This is a perfect timing to open it as government actions to foster local consumption are significantly supporting domestic travel retail channel.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#4

Thank you, Daniel, and good morning, everyone. I will now comment on our regional performance on Page 9. In France and EMEA, sales were down, respectively 49.6% and minus 51.1% on an organic basis, in line with the group average. The performance reflects a gradual improvement throughout the quarter, in line with stores reopenings, even if tourism flows remained absent throughout the quarter. In Europe, the performance was partially contrasted from one country to the other, reflecting various degrees of global shutdowns and levels of exposure to tourism. Among top performers, we can note Germany to around minus 10%, the Netherlands and Switzerland. Among bottom performers, we included Italy, the U.K. and Spain, which posted a decline of more than 70% in the quarter. In France, trends improved throughout the quarter, even if June was impacted by some negative calendar effects as the several sales were postponed by 3 weeks to July 15. In parallel, tourism remains totally absent, which notably explains the outperformance of the province area compared to Paris. In parallel, digital in Europe recorded a strong performance in Q2 with plus 39.7% of sales growth. Finally, we continue to make good progress on our branch optimization plan, with 4 closures in H1; 2 relocations, Strasbourg and La Vallée Village; and 1 closure in Poitiers. In the Americas, sales were down minus 69.8% on an organic basis, showing a greater impact from the crisis, as a lot of stores remain closed until the end of June, notably in the New York area, which is key for us. The situation there remains difficult as the region is still fighting the pandemic. That could result in some potential store closures, such as our recent decisions in Florida and in California to close some stores and in their malls. In parallel, e-commerce is displayed a strong acceleration versus Q1 in North America at plus 21.4% as we solved some of the operational issues we had seen in Q1 and saw more online demand. Turning now to APAC performance on Page 10. Sales were down 19.1% on an organic basis, showing a sequential improvement throughout the quarter. Performance reflected a good resilience in Mainland China, minus 3.4% in Q2 '20 and some contrasted trends in the rest of Asia. In Mainland China, we recorded a gradual improvement throughout the quarter, returning to growth in June with a positive like-for-like growth. These early signs of recovery are encouraging, even if the performance remains contrasted by cities. While the south of Mainland China already benefits from positive trends in many cities, the north remains challenging as some cities are still facing risks of local shutdowns. In the north, the performance was double-digit negative in June. Beijing, which represents a big part of Northern China, was down double digit in June as the city went back under lockdown with strict measures imposed. However, for a couple of days down, situation is improving, and all our stores are now back open in Beijing. In the south, the situation is completely different. The performance was double-digit positive in June with certain cities out of 15 being positive. In parallel, Mainland China benefited from a strong performance of e-commerce, plus 17%, mostly driven by successful operations on Tmall, as mentioned by Daniel. As for the rest of Asia, SMCP recorded contrasted trends, including good resilience in South Korea and Taiwan, which was positive in Q2, and tougher markets in Hong Kong and Singapore. In Hong Kong, the government announced the extension of tightened measure. Several new cases were reported and borders remained close to tourism. In Singapore, situation improved recently with the reopening of our stores. So thank you for your attention, and we're now happy to answer to your questions.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#5

Thank you, Philippe. Operator, I think that we have some questions.

Operator

operator
#6

[Operator Instructions] The first question comes from the line of Antoine Belge calling from HSBC.

Antoine Belge

analyst
#7

It's Antoine at HSBC. Three questions, please. First of all, you gave a bit of commentary about the exit rates by region. Is it possible maybe to be a bit more precise, maybe give the global exit rate for the month of June? And if you've seen a further improvement so far in July? Second question relates to the operating loss we could expect for H1. Is it possible maybe to give a range and with maybe some -- or at least some detail about the gross margin decline in inventory, depreciation, et cetera? And finally, maybe on De Fursac, So it is still not in the like-for-like base, but is it possible to have some kind of a comparable store growth on a pro forma basis? And maybe, is it possible to have an update on this acquisition and what you've been doing? And to what extent COVID-19 is postponing maybe some of the initiatives you had planned for that acquisition?

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#8

Okay. Thank you, Antoine. Listen, I'll take, very briefly, question 1 and 3, if you like, and I'll give the second one to Philippe. So you mentioned more detail on the global exit rate. I think I mentioned, but I'll repeat myself, earlier in the call. So our global exit rate in June was around minus 30, coming from minus 70 in April. So in the right direction. And as we pointed out, it was positive in China -- Mainland China, and even positive on a like-for-like basis in Mainland China. So that's -- the trends are going in the right direction. For July, obviously, I can't say too much. I can just say that the trends from June keeps slightly improving. But I remain cautious, obviously, on what can happen here until the end of the year. On De Fursac, I'd say a comment to start more broadly on the -- what we've seen in the men's markets in general. We've seen that men are a little bit less out there shopping than women, even when the store reopens. So I think there's a slight difference in performance by category, men versus women, on a global basis, and particularly in Europe where it's been slightly weaker. Has this affected our plan for De Fursac? Yes, of course, it has because part of our plan De Fursac was -- it's a beautiful brand, it's a market leader in France in men's accessible luxury. What we wanted to do was, obviously, expand it geographically. And we have some -- we had to take a little bit of a pause in the store -- new store growth. But we have our road map that we feel very comfortable with in terms of expanding in new markets. We already secured some locations. So we're very happy about that, but there's been a slight delay. In terms of what we're doing with the brand as well is we're using, I'd say, the tailoring routes but to inject them much more into urban casual wardrobe for men. And that's been something we've been working on since day 1, so to develop a much more compelling and larger urban casual offer, which I think corresponds to the market today, but still with the tailoring routes. And that business has been improving. And then in terms of integration, et cetera, within SMCP, our approach has always been to have a very light touch. We want to keep -- I want to keep what's made De Fursac successful is letting them have this -- giving them this independence, autonomy as a small start-up, let's say. And obviously, where the group can help in terms of business development, in terms of maybe store build-out, et cetera, we're doing that. But I'm not seeking to completely integrate it in, and I want to keep its spirit alive. So that's been the approach so far. And like I said, overall, we've had a slight delay in the opening plan because of COVID, but it's -- we've been able to secure some great locations for the future. Philippe, you might want to take -- say some words on question 2, whatever you can say.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#9

Yes. Antoine. So we're not going to comment too much on the EBITDA. As you know, that's the purpose of the call on September 4. So what we can -- to give you a little bit of color on your question on the gross margin, I think what we can say, we're not dissimilar to the overall market. Clearly, the market has been much more promotional during the lockdown and just after the look down. And then you have the impact on the inventory. So that results, clearly, on some pressure on the gross margin, be that in terms of higher discounts or some inventory -- additional inventory depreciation. So that's an impact on the EBITDA. I would say the other element is in terms of cost. So earlier this year, we have talked out our action plan in terms of cash reduction, and we have been really on track with that. And the indication we have given is to say that we can variabilize more than half of our cost, be that store cost or SG&A, and that's through the action that we have been mentioning, particularly rent relief, temporary unemployment and optimization of our structure. So I would say that's an indication that we can provide you today.

Antoine Belge

analyst
#10

Okay. So no -- I mean on the gross margin, I mean, we've seen quite different outcomes for different players, depending on the product mix and sort of percentage of seasonal products. So no way you can guide slightly?

Philippe Gautier

executive
#11

Well what I can tell you is that we had an impact, and then we have explained also what are the mitigation actions that we are getting in place. So yes, there is an impact, but we have also some wins to manage part of it.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#12

Do we have another question?

Operator

operator
#13

Yes, we do. The next question comes from the line of David Da Maia calling from CIC.

David Da Maia

analyst
#14

So my questions have already been asked by Antoine. So maybe a quick one on e-commerce. Your online sales grew by less than 20% in H1 on my calculation, which is significantly lower than some of your peers. How can you explain this on the performance because we saw some big increase in e-commerce sales from some of your peers in H1?

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#15

How much did you say, sorry, for H1?

David Da Maia

analyst
#16

Yes, less than 20% in H1 for e-commerce sales growth.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#17

No. So in H1, it was 32%. 32% was Q2. H1...

David Da Maia

analyst
#18

Because if I remember correctly, in Q1, it was flattish.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#19

Yes, exactly.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#20

Yes. So I think a couple of things. First of all, I'm -- we're very satisfied with the performance of e-commerce. I think you really have to look at the base as well, right? Our base -- our penetration last year, e-commerce sales was 15%. So it depends what your starting point is. It's very important to take that into account when you look at performance in H1. And listen, we're very happy with the performance in e-commerce. We think we have a very robust plan. We know it's an accelerator for the future. This is what I think COVID has taught us all that it was very important before, now it's going to accelerate. And our plan overall is articulated around 3 building blocks. The first is e-commerce itself, which is mainly done through our websites. A big part of the business, more than 50%, is done through our sites. The remaining is done with partners, with department store partners and pure players. We have been investing a lot, and wisely so I think, on omnichannel services. As I mentioned earlier, we just launched unified commerce, which is a service that not many companies have today. It's been a 2-year journey, and we're very happy to launch it. And the last part of our road map is to digitalize our processes, like visual merchandising and e-learning. So listen, I'd say, overall, I'm very happy with the performance of e-commerce in H1 and, in particular, in light of the 15% penetration as of last year.

David Da Maia

analyst
#21

Understood. But what's the share of e-commerce now in your total sales in H1 '20?

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#22

Yes. I mean I can give it to you, but I don't think it's a very relevant number because you're looking at an e-commerce penetration when a lot of stores, physical stores were closed. So I think it's not a normal rate at this point in time to give. I think it's misleading. It's obviously very high, but I think the question is more irrelevant probably...

David Da Maia

analyst
#23

Yes. It's quite irrelevant, yes.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#24

Yes. I think so just because most stores were closed. So probably in H2, I'll give you a number at the end of H2, for sure, which will be a more fair base. But obviously, it's very high, but it's not sustainable at this point in time.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#25

Do we have another question, operator?

Operator

operator
#26

Yes. The next question comes from the line of Christoph Schmitz calling from Carlyle.

Christian Schmitz

analyst
#27

It's Christian at Carlyle. I have a quick question. Could you maybe comment a little bit on your liquidity position right now? And then how you see it develop over the second half of the year? And in particular, I'd be curious to understand what your current thinking is about the maturities of your CP and, kind of, whether you think you can refinance those. And if not, what the alternative fallback plan is for that?

Philippe Gautier

executive
#28

Yes. Sure. Thank you for the question, Christian. So as you know, we've negotiated successfully a guaranteed of so-called PGE in France of EUR 140 million. In the same time, we also negotiated the covenants. So we have a covenant holiday for 2020 and we have an easing of the financial covenants for 2021, which is, I think, a great outcome. So -- and in the meantime -- so it means that we have this new liquidity, which is provided by the PGE. And in the meantime, we have reimbursed our NEU CP -- so our big takeaway, we have reimbursed all our NEU CP, and we have this new PGE in place. Based on that, our cash position is over EUR 200 million, which is, I think, really comfortable to face any potential risk in H2. So I think we are in a good position. As you know, -- may know, the logic of this state guaranteed loan, that was more to provide some headroom and further flexibility as we exit the crisis. So I would say we are in a good spot thanks to this negotiation.

Christian Schmitz

analyst
#29

And when you say you were -- sorry, one question. When you say you were above EUR 200 million in liquidity, you were at EUR 200 million liquidity at the end of the first calendar quarter. Does that mean you've burnt the entire EUR 140 million of the state loan already?

Philippe Gautier

executive
#30

No, no, no. That will -- if you remember, we had a situation of EUR 200 million in March where we had drawn already all the RCF as well as having a large portion of NEU CP outstanding, which is kind of unusual situation. So what has happened is that in the meantime, we have basically reimbursed NEU CP and we have this new line of PGE in place.

Christian Schmitz

analyst
#31

So you've repaid all of you commercial paper? Sorry, I'm...

Philippe Gautier

executive
#32

Yes, exactly. We've paid all our commercial paper, and we have this new PGE line in place, which is the reason why we stay with an excess cash position of EUR 200 million.

Christian Schmitz

analyst
#33

No, no, that makes sense. That obviously is much more positive. Can I ask one more question? I guess, there's been a little bit of news about your shareholder. I was just wondering what the level of discussion and communication is between you and your shareholder and whether you have any comment on what was going on there.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#34

Yes. So in terms of our shareholder, obviously, you're talking about Ruyi. Yes, we have -- I'd say we have frequent conversations, one this week, for example, with them, as is normal in a relationship, clearly. Listen, I can just say that they're busy. They're busy with their core business on production and also on their financial situation. I certainly can't talk for them, but I know that they're responsibly trying to reimburse their debts that are outstanding. So that's basically all I can say at this point in time. They've been a strategic shareholder to us, a good relationship since 2016, I'd say, as normal as can be between a strategic shareholder and us.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#35

Operator, do we have another question?

Operator

operator
#36

The next question comes from the line of Kathryn Parker calling from Jefferies.

Kathryn Parker

analyst
#37

Just checking, you can hear me okay?

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#38

Yes. Very well.

Kathryn Parker

analyst
#39

Great. So my first question is on the level of discounting. Whether you can give any more comments on how that's trended year-on-year? And perhaps if there are major differences in your different regions? And then my second questions refer to the article in WWD this morning from Daniel. So the first one is on the physical store network and the opening pipeline where I think it was said that you now expect to do half the number of physical stores versus your previous expectation. And I wondered if you could give some more clarity on that and whether it applies to the rationalization program in France stepping up, or whether it's just a reduction in the number of openings and which markets that would apply to. And then my third question is also from this article. So you're interested in speeding up the production time, and I wondered if you could give some more details on that and whether you would consider internalizing some of your production. Or how you're looking to achieve the faster replenishment?

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#40

Okay. Well thank you, Kathryn. Thanks for reading the article. You're well briefed. Listen, I'll say -- I'll try to answer your questions. I think Philippe can maybe take a little bit more specifically the discounts on the discount question, but maybe I'll start with that just by a quick context. So obviously, when our stores came out of -- when they started reopening, primarily in Europe and North America, our stores reopened in an environment where we were already in traditional mid-season sales already, and then followed presales in most markets. And then as Philippe mentioned earlier, the real sales started in France anyway from mid-July. So my point is when we reopened, we started already in a promotional period overall in most markets. So that's kind of the backdrop to that question, and I'll let Philippe answer in more detail. Okay. So your first question on maybe the store network, maybe I'll answer it a bit more broadly. What I was trying to mention again in the go-forward without being very specific because we'll be much more specific at Investor Day is that, what's changed? What's changed in this crisis? I don't think there's been some things that we're not aware of. It's just that some factors, such as digital, purpose -- brand purpose, sustainability have all accelerated in an incredibly meaningful way. If you weren't there before, it's going to be hard to get there. I think we've been planning these things for a very, very long time, and I think they will accelerate, which means that we can see in the future, since we built our network, our physical network throughout the countries, we have a decent amount of coverage, I would say, overall. There's still some white spaces left in key markets. China is one, as I mentioned. But more and more, we'll be focusing on developing our digital platforms. I mentioned the 3-pronged approach to our digital road map, we're going to be accelerating that, and we have been for some time. And it will have a slight impact on the number of physical stores that we'll develop in the future, simply put. So we had a cadence in the past of 80 to 90. I don't certainly want to give a guidance today because we'll get more specific at Investor Day, but wanted to say that we anticipate less stores than 80 to 90 potentially in the future because we're accelerating digital. Now does that touch upon the France optimization plan? Yes, it does a little bit as well because, as you know, we've launched, about a year ago, a plan to optimize our store -- physical store network already, and we've been optimizing, I'd say, on that basis, maybe 10 to 15 stores a year. Simply because when we entered, and French is our original market, back then digital was a very small part of our business. So we, I'd say, introduced our brands in smaller cities through physical stores. That is not the way forward. So that's why we've been optimizing our French network, and we'll continue to do so this year and next year as well. So that has an implication in terms of less stores, but not only that. Overall, we're being more selective in our physical stores, and with the greater focus of those stores in Asia, particularly China. And last, in terms of production, I think I was misquoted because I don't want to reduce the time to create the collections. We need -- we have a very strong creation process, just like luxury brands do, and that's important, and that takes 3 or 4 months. And we want our creative teams to feel energized and to not force the process. However, my goal is to reduce the time it takes to replenish, and that's a key success factor. If we can replenish, and we're already pretty fast now from 5 to 9 weeks to replenish product within a season. That -- I'm very interested in minimizing that because it means that we can become more agile, and that's a big project that we have in the company to become more agile and maybe have less initial buys and chase the best sellers. And that's been a -- that's a very important part of our plan going forward. So it's reducing replenishment time, but not the creative time. And Philippe, I don't know if you want to say a few words on discount.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#41

Sure. So if you recall, last year, we talked a bit about our discount policy, which is, in general, to be lower in discount than the overall market, and we have been successful in doing that. And that has resulted roughly in a discount rate of about 30% on average. So this year, there is clearly more promotional pressure on the market. So we have been a little bit more tactical, and that's where the discount rate has increased a bit. But it does not change the overall strategy. So that's what we can say. In terms of the situation by region on discount rates, it's naturally different from what you would expect or what we have seen in the past, meaning that the most promotional market continues to be the U.S., and a less promotional market is Asia, Europe and France being somewhere in the middle. So nothing really changed there.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#42

Do we have another question, operator?

Operator

operator
#43

Yes. [Operator Instructions] The next question comes from the line of Chiara Battistini calling from JPMorgan.

Chiara Battistini

analyst
#44

The first one would be on North America. I just want to expand a bit more on what you're seeing there because it's the market that is underperforming versus the others. I was just wondering whether you're seeing anything, just any weakness in your brand perception with the consumers. If there is anything brand specific? Or it's just really the environment being particularly fast paced? And also if you could remind us of how much of your sales in North America are to usually tourist, so last year, of course, before COVID? And then the second question, and I appreciate it's very, very, very early, but I was wondering whether you've already started planning in terms of supplies for next year, for 2021. Anything you can share already in terms of how you're thinking about next year? Whether you think a full recovery should be done next year? Or it's going to be more gradual? I appreciate that's very early still to think about that, but any color on that would be super.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#45

Well thank you, Chiara. Listen, I missed the first part of your question. What -- you were talking about North America, is that correct?

Chiara Battistini

analyst
#46

Yes. North America.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#47

I see. Okay. I get it. Listen, I'll say a few words, and I'll let Philippe complete as well. Listen, I think right out said, North America is no, not at all. I think our brands remain -- we just have Sandro and Maje in North America. I see it through the benchmarking in some department stores where we rank, and even up through last year and the numbers I've had this year in some key department stores within a panel of roughly 20 brands in accessible luxury, we're very consistently in every store in the top 3, maybe top 4 sometimes, and often #1. So there's a very strong brand appeal of Sandro and Maje in North America. What we're seeing today in my view, is clearly a market environment. Again, the -- have stores reopened prematurely? Probably, yes. And that's been, obviously, a government-led decision. As I mentioned as well, there's a lot of issues in North America on COVID. And sports have reopened, closed again in Florida and California. So I think the market environment, that you know very well is extremely complicated in North America. For me, it's much -- it's almost 100% of a market issue as opposed to a brand issue because I know our brands are very desirable and have a relative good performance in North America. Philippe, I don't know if you wanted to add anything.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#48

Yes. Chiara, maybe just to put in perspective, it's important to recall that during the quarter, we had our stores in North America closed about 2.5 months on average. So we still had about half of our stores closed in the middle of June, and then started opening very gradually. Still had 17% of the store lost end of June. Obviously, New York was the latest market -- last market to reopen. And you know that the traffic in New York is really extremely low. At this point in time, we have about 4% of our North American stores which are closed as some stores were closed in Florida and California. We'll continue to monitor this situation. Now on your question on tourism, if we talk specifically about Chinese tourism, it roughly denotes 15% of the overall -- around 15% of the overall sales in the U.S. We do have also other nationalities as well and then you could have also Asian Americans, depending whether the people are traveling or if they are living in the U.S. So different categories are expected. So clearly, there is a really big, big shock, external shock on the North American market, and we will continue to monitor that closely.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#49

Did you have -- Chiara, you had a question on supply. I don't know if we answered your third question.

Chiara Battistini

analyst
#50

Yes. No, it was more how you're thinking about next year, if you already started planning for next year? If you, at the moment, are thinking about next year as a full recovery or a gradual recovery versus this year? I appreciate it's early.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#51

Yes. Listen, I think it's a departure point. I think we're not looking -- as I mentioned in Women's Wear Daily article, I guess, this morning, I'm not looking to replicate or to get back to the situation of 2018 and 2019. That's not an objective for us. The objective is to accelerate our business model on purpose, on sustainability, on digital road map, among other things. And those are really the important things going forward. Now do we see -- how do we see 2021? Well obviously, that's a big question. I think the market has been -- if you read what's out in the market, I think the big factor I'd say is tourism. Tourism will be a key driver, and it depends when all the tourism flows continue. We've been able to, though, Chiara, in the past 6 years build a very balanced business by brand, but also on a geographical perspective. And that's been a big strength of the group as well because we have a meaningful footprint in Asia, in China, in Europe obviously, and in North America. So that -- even if consumer stays at home or even stays local, we're able to capture that in the local markets and not benefit from, obviously, the tourism flows. But I think next year will be challenging as well. I think we see -- it's hard to say. There's just simply uncertainty built into the model as we see stores reopen in California, then they close. So I think we're living in a very uncertain environment, but we feel very confident that we have the right formula, the right strategy for the future. That's not necessarily going to be exactly as it was in the past because of these things I just mentioned. And we're really accelerating, again, purpose, sustainability and our digital road map going forward. But I expect that there will be some uncertainty for a little bit of time, like other groups have reported as well.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#52

Do we have some questions, operator? I don't think so.

Operator

operator
#53

We have no further questions in the queue.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#54

Okay. So thank you very much. We look forward to speaking to you on September 4 for our H1 results. And in the meantime, we wish you a nice summer.

Daniel Lalonde

executive
#55

Yes. Thank you, everyone.

Philippe Gautier

executive
#56

Thank you.

Célia d'Everlange

executive
#57

Bye-bye.

Operator

operator
#58

Thank you for joining today's call. You may now disconnect your lines. Hosts, please stay connected.

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