adidas AG (ADS) Earnings Call Transcript & Summary

March 8, 2023

Deutsche Boerse Xetra DE Consumer Discretionary Textiles, Apparel and Luxury Goods earnings 107 min

Earnings Call Speaker Segments

Operator

operator
#1

Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen. Thank you for standing by. Welcome, and thank you for joining the adidas AG Full Year 2022 Conference Call. [Operator Instructions] It's my pleasure, and I would now like to turn the conference over to Sebastian, Head of IR. Please go ahead, sir.

Sebastian Steffen

executive
#2

Thanks very much, [ Frances ], and good evening, good afternoon, good morning, everyone, wherever you are joining us today virtually for our full year 2022 results conference call. Our presenters today are our CEO, Bjorn Gulden; and our CFO, Harm Ohlmeyer. You can see the agenda here. Bjorn will kick it off in a second with his opening followed by Harm, who will recap our financial year 2022. Then Bjorn will be back to take stock and ultimately share our outlook with you. Last but not least, we will have enough time for your questions during our Q&A session. Talking about the Q&A session, I would like to ask you, as always, to limit your initial questions to 2 in order to allow as many people as possible to ask their questions. Having said that, we're obviously looking forward to your creativity, how to extend that limit and interpret the #2 in your very own way. But that's for later. There's lots to discuss today. So without any further ado, over to you, Bjorn.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#3

Yes. Thanks, Sebastian, and hello, everybody. I guess this is strange listening to me on an adidas call, but that's how the world is. And I have to tell you that this has been 7 or 8 very busy weeks to understand where the business is and look upon what resources and possibilities we have. And I would like to say that I'm actually proud to be here that might -- may be some strange after what I told you when I was on PUMA. But I just quickly want to repeat to you that there was 9 years there. I think I had a very good time. I have, I would say, very close friends left there. And I think it's fair to say after 9 years, fulfilling my contract, it was time to do something different. The plan was definitely not to do it with adi but the way things developed and very quickly developed that was then and options that I then have to say yes to. And having been here for 8 weeks, I'm extremely, what should I say, happy that I did it. And as I said, very, very proud. I will tell you in 20 minutes or so, what I see and tell you a little bit about the outlook. But I think before that, I'll give it over to the adi expert, Harm, so you can tell us what happened in '22.

Harm Ohlmeyer

executive
#4

Thank you, Bjorn, and thank you, Sebastian, and warm welcome from my side as well. Good morning, good evening, good afternoon, wherever you are dialing in from and of course, it's a pleasure for me to talk about '22. And of course, it was not just a disappointing year for me as a person, but definitely more importantly for adidas as well. And we clearly did not perform as we should have performed, and I will get you through some of the details. But of course, there have been a lot of bright spots as well. And after several years, sport to center stage again in '22, Real Madrid winning the Champions League, Benzema winning the Ballon d'Or, Three Stripes at the heart of the UEFA Women's Euro, Germany, unfortunately, only coming in second, but played very well, bought the female soccer to a different level. And ultimately, the FIFA World Cup with Argentina winning and also that privilege being part of it, live in the stadium was a fantastic final. We also dominated running with Adizero. We won more marathons or major marathons and combine all other brands together. And we brought these athletes to our home turf here and had to as well to the road to records where we again had a lot of European and national records and of course, the Winter Olympics just one example, Denise Herrmann-Wick bringing home gold. But also product highlights, whether it's a Y-3 [indiscernible] Real Madrid or the X Speedportal campaigned with Rick and Morty. Also the ball with the World Cup Al Rihla or Al Hilm for the final. Again, adizero Adios Pro 3 delivered what really matters most in running, one win after the other. Outdoor extended the sustainability offer with Spinnova, [ Hoodie ], Agravic Flow 2 for the trails. And we launched sportswear as well with the capsule collection focus on the Gen Z. And a lot of collaboration with great creators out there, whether it's with Pharrell or the collaboration with Gucci just to name some, and basketball was growing nicely, also driven by the forum that we brought back to the market. All of this is happening with great campaigns. Storytelling is what we need to work on and what we will continue going forward. We talked about it many, many times, but also our attitude, Impossible is Nothing was visible. And also the commitment to gender equality with I'm Possible campaign definitely took a lot of hearts out there. We shook up the marketplace with the bra revolution, and there's more to come, but clearly focusing on better offering around bras and tights to win the minds of the female athletes as well. And we continue to run for the ocean. There's almost 7 million people joining around the headline of end plastic waste, saving our oceans. And the world's biggest football family reunion, dedicated campaign, spotlighting the fun of the game around the FIFA World Cup, and again, Rick and Morty X Speedportal excited the younger football enthusiasts out there. So you can see a lot of things that we're excited the consumer with. But of course, we had a lot of company and market-specific challenges as well, cause the war in Ukraine tragedy still and more than a year ongoing. The wind down of the Russian business, COVID-19 restrictions were still felt in many countries, specifically in China, but also Greater China was just not a market topic, but also company-specific challenges that we talked about in the past. And of course, unfortunately, the termination of the YEEZY partnership, which definitely weighed on our top line and our bottom line. And again, you heard me saying that many times, if you lose 3 profit pools in one year, it has -- at least it's marked on the P&L, where we see it here. Net sales currently neutral growing 1%. The gross margin down by 3.4 percentage points to 47.3%. The operating margin down to 3% and net income from continuing operations around EUR 254 million according to the guidance that we said as well. So clearly, we had planned for a different year. We actually had planned double-digit growth. We originally had planned a double-digit margin. And very clearly, after several profit warnings, this was not the year that we wanted to talk about. But very quickly, we come back how we're going to talk about '23 as well. When we talk about the markets clearly, still some starts on the map. We are growing 9% in Europe, it would have been 14% without Russia, double-digit increases on the performance side, while Lifestyle was up single digits. We look at North America up 12%, strong sell-through of our product launches in football, running and outdoor. Latin America, also double-digit growth, strong growth in both performance and Lifestyle and then APAC, strong growth, again, in outdoor football and running, and Lifestyle was down low single digits. Overall, the profitability is still very good in EMEA, in Asia Pacific and in Latin America around or above 20%. But of course, Greater China declining 36% was not what we were planning for, especially the profitability. It's only 10%, it's far away from what we used to see from Greater China. It's also important that we are growing nicely in the Performance categories. Overall, plus 19% and again, football growing significantly based on the products that we launched, whether it was the Predator or the Federation kits. We also, of course, utilize the FIFA World Cup with more than 50% growth in the fourth quarter and achieving also our guidance that we gave around the football net sales or the World Cup net sales running, growing double digit. And of course, that's where we start utilizing and commercializing the wins that we generated with the Adizero Pro and building credibility and advocacy to commercialize the running category even further in '23 and '24. And outdoor was a very balanced growth of footwear and apparel. And U.S. sports, definitely the highlight with Patrick Mahomes being the MVP and bring the Super Bowl home for the brand. He's probably the athlete in the U.S. right now. I'm very glad to have him with us and there's more to come from him. And we shouldn't forget golf after the COVID restrictions, definitely a category that was growing nicely also for us. All of these categories are growing double digit. So a good foundation for what we need to do in the future. When it comes to Lifestyle and Bjorn will come back to this in more detail, but clearly disappointing. What we saw from a commercial offer in Sportswear. And there's definitely an opportunity for the future. We launched the [indiscernible] collection but some of the offers could have been better there and originals, great collaborations with Gucci, Bad Bunny, Pharrell Williams, driving hype but again, commercially, we should have and we will do better in the future that Bjorn is going to talk about. When it comes to the channels, wholesale growing 1%, double-digit increases in EMEA and in North America and Latin America. DTC grew 2%. Own retail was largely flat, also impacted by the closure of the Russian business, which almost entirely was Own Retail. E-Com grew 4%, still reflecting some higher comps from early last year as well as some online fatigue after markets. We're opening up again and consumers move more to the physical space. Nevertheless, North America and [ LAM DTC ] as a whole and E-Com, both were up double digit. But again, we shouldn't forget wholesale is still 61% of the overall business, playing significant role, not just in '22, but also going forward. What's important to note is when you look at the quarterly split, as you can expect from me a lot of numbers, but I would focus here on the fourth quarter where we only -- the net sales were down 1%. What has really happened there because originally, we wanted to grow around 20% in the fourth quarter. Of course, there was around a EUR 600 million of YEEZY business that did not happen, originally, we said EUR 500 million, but we also took some returns on our wholesale accounts. So it actually rounded up to EUR 600 million. And of course, there was something we decided significant inventory take backs in China given the inventory situation that we have and some of the close downs and then the opening up of the zero COVID policy where actually consumers did not go out. So that's where you see the minus 50%, which, again, was not the original plan. But of course, these 2 effects weigh on our quarterly results. When we look at the P&L in more detail. Again, no surprises here. You have seen it already twice on the 9th of February. And this morning, again, I don't want to spend too much time on it. Gross margin is down. I'll give you some more details on the next chart. The operating margin down by 6.4 percentage points to 3% based on the gross margin decline, based on higher operating expenses reflecting additional investment into new campaigns, products and consumer experiences. And of course, one-offs that I'll go into more details of around EUR 300 million. The tax rate was up as well because some of the expenses were not tax deductible. That is something that you should read into the tax rate but more importantly, the net income around the level where we guided was EUR 254 million. And also there, there were one-off cost of EUR 350 million in there. When I go to the one-off cost, something in more detail, EUR 59 million on the gross profit. That was a decision to wind down the business in Russia and also higher provisions for customs-related risk. There were operating expenses around EUR 253 million, again, most of it linked to the Russian wind down, the settlement of the legal dispute and some restructuring costs as part of our business improvement program that we booked in the fourth quarter. So overall operating profit impact of EUR 312 million and then with some puts and takes in between operating profit and net income. There was overall a EUR 350 million impact of 1x in '22. When we come to the gross margin, the biggest factor here was 400 basis points of supply chain cost, whereas higher FOBs, higher freight cost, they were definitely peaking in the third quarter. They're coming down slightly, and we definitely talk about that as we move into '23 as well what's happening on FOBs and also freight cost, but there was most meaningful factor. Then when it comes to the category channel and market mix, most pronounced in China there, as it has been a significant profit pool in the past, slightly downwards trend on the FX that was originally planned to be positive as well. Inventory route down over the situation that we have. And then you should look at pricing at discount as a combination. Of course, we priced up. But then as the consumer wasn't as sound anymore, there were some discount, required a promotional environment in the fourth quarter as well, leading to a gross margin of 47.3%. Of course, all of it is linked to inventory where you see that the inventory peaked in the third quarter. It was then down to a level of around EUR 6 billion at the end of '22, and this already includes an inventory of YEEZY of around EUR 400 million. This is an overall increase of 49%. Again, that is the value in volume, it will be less. And you should see that in relation to the Vietnam closures last -- in '21. That impacted the year-end inventory in '21. Some FX as well, but also the cost per piece increased and the lead times were longer. So it's not one-to-one comparable. Still too high, very clearly. That's what we're working on. We are focused on, first and foremost, North America, and to some degree, Greater China, but we made good progress in Greater China in '22 already and also in the first couple of months. Clearing excess inventory where it's needed. We are focusing on apparel, first and foremost because footwear is easier to carry forward into other quarters. We significantly decreased our buying volume going into not just bring Summer '23, but also more importantly, Fall Winter '23 and we are technically repurposing some existing inventory, again, primarily on footwear, but also where it makes sense, moving it to markets where the demand is higher. So we believe, overall, depending on the market, we'll be in a much better situation in summertime, but we still need to work with this one over the next couple of months. When you look at the working capital, I don't want to go through the details of receivables and payables. But again, it's a story of inventories again. And you remember that we probably were best-in-class in the fourth quarter 2019. We dealt with that during COVID in 2020. We know how to do that. It always takes some months and quarters, but we are very confident that we will do it again. And I mentioned what we are doing already, buying less, clearing the inventory where it makes sense. And this will definitely normalize again towards the course of the year. Given the inventory is also linked to the adjusted net borrowings and what happened to our rating, before I go to the rating notch down on S&P and Moody's, I want to explain real quick in more detail the adjusted net borrowings because it was our plan to reduce the cash position that we had at the end of '21. That's why we accelerated the share buyback in the first quarter '22. We also returned the proceeds of Reebok back to shareholders of EUR 1.5 billion, so over EUR 2.5 billion share buyback, EUR 600 million dividends. But quite honestly, there was not the plan to build up that inventory that significantly and reduce it to that level. So clearly, we overshot a little bit, but it wasn't planned to reduce the cash position on the balance sheet because back then, we had negative interest as well. Also that has changed very quickly. But that gives you an idea how we get from the EUR 2 billion adjusted net borrowings at the end of '21 to the around EUR 6 billion at the end of '22. Again, when I look at the rating, KPI is the most important one for us as is the leverage ratio, and we clearly have the goal again, probably not in '23 with some ups and downs, but clearly in '24 again, to get back to our financial policy to get the leverage ratio below 2. We are going in a good direction already in '23, but I can't promise you right now that we get below 2, but clearly, in '24, that is the goal to get there. All of this was discussed with Moody's and with S&P. Moody's gave us 2 notches down, now on A- and Moody's on A3. As you all know, there is still a strong investment grade with a negative outlook, unfortunately, but this is that we are committed to and also me personally as the CFO to get that in the right direction again. But again, still a strong investment grade, but not really what I had planned for again in '22. When we look at the dividend proposal, we are proposing EUR 0.70 on the shares outstanding of 179 million. There would be a total payout of EUR 125 million on the net income reported of EUR 254 million. This will be at the higher end of the payout ratio that we always gave a range of 30% to 50% when we move to the higher end of this was 49.2%, but I believe that is also the right measurement given where we are as a company and the whole situation is. So that is really where we are for the financials. No surprises in this. Happy to take some questions later on. But I also want to close before I hand over to Bjorn. The World Cup has not been the turning point for the company yet, but believe me, being there personally, being more than 100 accounts and customers that we had there. There's a lot of people of our company as well. There were a lot of tears in their eyes, a lot of happiness bringing the trophy home, it was definitely a pleasure and the turning point for me personally. And back then I was looking forward to January to hand over the baton to Bjorn. And this is what I do now again, I hand over to Bjorn to talk more about the future.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#5

Thanks, Harm. Let's hope for us that Messi doesn't have its best day today. You know he's playing for Paris against Bayern and Munich. So let's hope he has a bad day. It's more important for us that Bayern gets through. So I've been here for almost 2 months, and I thought it would be worthwhile giving you a short look back what I've seen and talk a little bit about what I think that means and you know me, as always, to get you in the right mood, here is a reason. [Presentation]

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#6

Yes. I think there's no doubt that this company is rooted in sports history. I've said it many times. I mean, this small town created the sports industry and of course, adi with the scale and when I look at the archive and I go through the museum, it is actually very emotional because it's very, very, what should I say, touch it to work for a company with that kind of history. Then when you look at the marks of the brands, I think there are a few companies in the world regardless of what industry that has this kind of brand marks. I would also like to say that TERREX on the outdoor side has been a very, very good move, and you will see that later from a development. And I think the awareness and the consideration of actually buying product with this logos is very, very high all over the world. And of course, that is the best starting point that you can have. If you then look at the different businesses, there is no doubt that we have a huge credibility in sports. It's also -- and especially over the last 20 years, clear that we have a credibility in fashion. And then when it gets to connecting to the street culture, which we all try to do, I wouldn't see many companies that has the opportunities that we have, and we'll get back to that in a second. What is very unique to adi is, of course, the connection to what I said, the organizers of sports. That has been the DNA of the company. Always, I think adi has been part of shaping professional sports. We can discuss if all of that has been good. But my feeling and opinion is that this has been very important because I think it has accelerated the way professional sports have developed. And I think it's much easy to complain about sports than it's actually being part of it. And when you see these kind of relationships, that tells you how rooted we are and how sports are organized. When you then look at the teams, again, the portfolio is very, very special. I think we all have to agree that they have signed very good teams. For these, it's a little bit special to get Italy and Arsenal back again. I was part of divesting from them at PUMA. Now I have them back again. Arsenal actually performing well. And let's hope that Italy will perform better than the last time, although we also had a very good relationship with them in my previous company. But no doubt, if you look at it, we have all the teams that we need to do to have a very, very good image and a very good business in both, I would say, professional sports and college sports and of course, also in the license market. The same thing goes for the athletes. I mean we have a roster of athletes in all sports that is incredible. In America, in team sport, in individual sport, even in winter sport with Mikaela. I think I also would like to say that you will see us invest more again also in smaller sports and widen our portfolio. I think the DNA of adi has always been to develop product for all kinds of sports. I think there was even an Olympics where we had shoes for all sports that you could participate in. I'm not sure we go that wide. But I do think from a creativity point of view and from a development point of view, we cannot only do the big sports but had to go wider again. And we have the resources here. I mean, we both have our own factories and our own sample shops. And you will see us be more visible again like adi used to be in the smaller sports. And then adi has been criticized for not creating brand heat enough and not doing enough. I think if you look at that slide, that's the collab partners that adi had over the last, I would say, 18 to 24 months, Moncler, Prada, Gucci and Balenciaga. It's impossible to have higher partner standards. I think what we can discuss, maybe it's been too many for a short period of time, and I think that, again, is caused by the fact that many of these things were delayed, and that then it happened to go to market almost at the same time. I don't think that had the impact that it might have had. But the fact that all these 4 brands came to [ Herzo ] to go through our archive to work with us on different franchises, has been a fantastic recognition of who adi is. And when I see the list of brands who wants to work with us, I feel we are in great, great shape. If you then look at the famous word of street culture, I think Pharrell, Beyonce, Bad Bunny, now also Jenna Ortega. Again, the line up to connect to that culture is unique. And again, I think we have the resources and the scalability to really create brand heat here again. And that is, of course, what we will do. Pharrell now also being the lead designer for LVHM (sic) [ LVMH ] on the men's side is, of course, probably the hottest designer out there or creative at all. And him moving to Paris and being closer to us, will of course, also be very, very important for us. And I think Jenna is probably the hottest, I would say, female connected that you can actually sign and the impact after 2 weeks has been very, very, very strong. I also have to say that the state-of-the-art resources that you hear fine, meaning the infrastructure is unbelievable. When I see the campus we're now sitting at but also our offices around the world, Portland, Shanghai. And since a couple of weeks in LA, I mean, it's unbelievable what we have. Here at Herzo we have a science center for sports, which I've never seen anything like it. We have a [indiscernible] factory. We have stitching lines. We have 3D printing machines. We have all the resources that you need to do, to do innovations and the working environment that our people have around the world is, in my opinion, the best that you can have and the groundwork for having talent working in a creative environment is great. Same thing on the tech side, adi has spoken a lot about tech. And when you see, they have 6 hubs where people are sitting, programming for us, different applications, working on our tech side. Again, something that I'm not used to see, but it's obvious that we have invested a lot on this side. And also, of course, for future growth because it's obvious that the payback on this investment has not been there yet because the growth is not there. But the pipeline we have when it gets to applications and when it gets to our analytics and our digital business is unique. And again, a pipeline that has been laid that will help us tremendously going forward. Same thing with the stores, we can discuss a lot about DTC and wholesale, but the Hilo stores that we have around the world and on the left side is the new one we did in Seoul just a couple of weeks ago. Again, very, very good locations, great stores that represents the brand in a great way. And of course, as traffic continues to increase, we will also see that profitability in these stores will start to increase. What is very unique is that we have a shoe factory in Europe in Germany, 40 minutes away from here in Scheinfeld, where we have the capability to make very many different shoes here you see, for example, Copa Mundial and I think that we will start to exploit this even more than we have done before. European production, European development, especially where you have collabs with artists and also where maybe made in Germany and made in Europe will make sense. I think it's dual that we haven't utilized and me being a product freak, I think you will see us using this more than we've ever done. And don't forget that shoe competence in Europe is not that easy to find and create and we can use this as an education center and make sure that we never lose the focus on product, especially footwear. We talked a lot about distribution centers. Yes, I take a challenge for many companies. The fact that multichannel distribution creates a lot of, what should I say, new task for our disease. It looks to me what I've seen that adi has invested a lot that, of course, now we have an overcapacity because we have built distribution centers for future growth. But again, I think having them and be ready for the future is better than not having them. And to me, it looks also here that we are in a very good, what should I say, state. We talk a lot about talent and diversity. Again, we have people from more than 100 nationalities. And as you see, we currently have more female people than male, should of course, be 50-50. We have more than 90% of our employees being non-German. So the time when we were a German company exporting is over. This is a true global company. And of course, having 39% women in leadership is not good enough because down the road, it should be 50%. But I think the development is definitely in the right direction, and I've already seen a lot of female talent that is very visible in this organization. There has been a lot of negativity around adi, at least from the outside about negative culture and people not liking to work here. I think if you look at the different research that has been done, here 2 examples, the adi score is very, very high, in what should I say, in many research, here just 2 examples out of many, many, many hundred companies in all the industries, 16 in the Forbes, are #5 in Stern. As far as I could see, actually way ahead of all of our competitors. So I think there is a perception that this is not a great place to work, which is very, very wrong. And as I said, all the ingredients to be a great place to work is there and maybe we need to market it more down the road. For all of us in the industry, sustainability and ESG is not a question about if, it's only about how. What I've seen so far, the investment here in that is immense. I think not only at adi but also at the other brands, I think we all want to be good citizens. And when you look at the ratings and the targets, I would say that we are actually way ahead of the curve when it gets to actually doing what we're saying. And then we all know that this will never stop, and we will have to continue to develop. But also here, I would say it's a big check. So if you put that all together, I think it's obvious, as I said already, when I started, it looks like adi has all the ingredients for success. But as you saw from Harm's presentation, we are currently not performing the way we should. If we then go back to what we are or where we are performing, it's kind of ironic that I think he showed 19% growth in Performance. And you know and all of you have discussed this with me many times, Performance is more difficult to create than fashion. And there has always been criticism on this brand and also my previous brand that it's only fashion or nonperformance. Here, you have strong growth in running, in football, in golf and U.S. sports. Lately also in outdoor. And I would say that the criticism that we don't have innovation and performance product is not true. There is quite some innovation that has gone into the market. There is more innovation on the road. And I can tell you from the inside that both the running and the football line going into '24 is excellent and I'm not worried about this at all. On the Performance side, as I said, we added Italy, again, a little bit strange. But I have to say that the Italian teams always look good. They did that with PUMA and now they look great also with us. And of course, happy that they are with us. I think it was a fun thing that adi did and has nothing to do with me, but I'm a Jamaica fan and signing the soccer team creates a lot of lifestyle opportunities, and it's a fun thing for sweet soccer where we already now have product in the market and have created a lot of buzz for example, in the U.K. When it gets to footwear, I mean the Predator that is currently being launched is beautiful. When I see Bellingham playing it. It is like what should I say, the shoe carries them around at the speed, which is incredible and the way he plays, and the branding and the technology is unique. I think also the way we have played with the trends in soccer by doing Triple Black and Triple White Shoes is working very well. And as I said, the market share that adi has been taken lately in soccer and the way it looks going forward, it's a big check for the category that should be owned by adi. When you look at running, the boost technology has been now for 10 years, and we know it's the most comfortable technology, never probably been as strong on the performance side. That's why the adizero products that you see here has been doing unbelievable well. It's now a good, big business for us. And it is the groundwork for everything we do in sports marketing. I think they say that they were more than half of the races around the world when it gets to majors. Never believe those numbers, but they're probably right. When they say that, and here just some examples from last weekend where I think we won almost all the races that were from the marathon in Tokyo, we won in Rome, Paris, and I think we also won in Dubai, it's not on the picture. But sports marketing and the product people doing a great, great job in running. And I have seen also the '24 line, whether we bring back the Supernova and I think we will be super, super, super competitive and running going into '24. Outdoor, I think the idea about putting all the outdoor product that they have under one umbrella, the TERREX brand, has worked very well. Those of you who know me, know I'm a mountain freak both in the summer and the winter. I can tell you the product is excellent. And this is meantime a business, I think, about EUR 0.5 billion. We all know that outdoor activities is increasing, and we have all what should I say, ingredients and also to be part of that growth, both in the winter and in the summer. And also on the sports marketing side, we are in the Winter Olympics and me being Norwegian, you should not be surprised if we will be more visible also in the winter. Golf new to me without clubs, but the apparel and the footwear businesses in golf makes us actually a market leader in many markets. And again, golf, we talked about that before too, has had quite some momentum during COVID and coming out of COVID, the activity seems to keep high. And we have very smartly kept our golf business outside of the normal adidas business. It's run out of Carlsbad in the center of golf and with very, very, I would say, knowledgeable and passionate people, and it looks like it's a very what should I say, strong business unit with the great growth perspectives. So the Performance side, I would say, is in check, and that is very, very good to see and it's also good to see that our innovation pipeline and the resources to do innovation from technologies and applications is great. And for me, running around here in the basement and see all this is great because that's something that we, of course, did not have in my previous job. So the issues that are negative and where my friend Harm has problems with the numbers is on the Lifestyle side. And it's a little bit ironic because when you look at the regional business, the sportswear business and, of course, the YEEZY business, when you combine those 3, you have all the elements to be successful. But unfortunately, I think that during COVID and during the last couple of years, we have not probably utilized this in the best way. And currently, we've had too many franchises who [indiscernible] our inventory and too much discounting. On top of that, you have the YEEZY business, which, again, in my opinion, Ye is maybe the most creative, I would say, a person that has ever been in our industry. The combination with an excellent go-to-market job done by adi, both in the products, in the manufacturing and not at least the way they went to market digitally with the different applications and the way they are actually utilizing the heat is in my opinion next to nothing. And -- or better than anything. And of course, losing that is a very, very tough thing. But anyway, now we have lost it and we have to deal with that, and I'm sure we will talk about that in the Q&A. What is positive is that we currently have maybe the hottest shoe in the market in the segment we call Terrace. It is the SAMBA, the GAZELLE and SPEZIAL. And you see on the right side, actually a mockup or what do you call it, pop-up store that we made in Shanghai 2 days ago. Team put it up very, very quickly, one shoe model. And as you can see, people are lining up to buy only one product and the products you can only buy in white or black. And to help you a little bit to be knowledgeable, you can call it Terrace, or you can call the shoes T-Toe because as you see the design has a T on the toe box and all the shoes in this, what should I say, design direction is doing extremely well. And for us, that's the SAMBA, GAZELLE and the SPEZIAL, and you have seen it for a while coming in on, I would say, fashion shows and also on celebrities that have actually bought the shoes themselves. And it's a very, very fast growing, what should I say, franchise. And the good thing for me is that actually something I haven't seen for a long time. It's a hot in Asia, China, Korea and Japan. It's hot in Lat Am, it's hot in Europe and in America. And I can't remember last time I saw that. So again, look for the SAMBA, look for the GAZELLE and ironically also the SPEZIAL, which was actually a hand ball shoe that even I used when I was playing which probably tell how old I'm getting. But again, an anchor into the fashion world and I think something that if we manage it correctly, can be millions and millions of payers and it's the first test if we can manage now a new franchise in the right way by keeping it alive, heating it up every quarter without over distributing it. So we start to discount. So you should have a look and judge how we're doing, but I'm very optimistic. When you look at the geography, and then Harm showed us that Lat Am very, very fast-growing market. I think it was 44% that he showed, and it continues strong growth in the emerging markets, which funny enough are those that are also growing the fastest. And it looks like we have a good, I would say, stock in all those markets with subsidiaries and with good setups. And then Asia Pacific, again, now starting to come back in a good speed and knowing that also the Chinese tourists will start to come back, we see a very positive, what should I say, outlook for those regions. We have had, like I think everybody had, difficult in Greater China for 3 years. Remember, this used to be the most profitable region for adi and also for other companies and it was growing at a very, very high pace. And of course, going from growing 30% to being down 50% is part of the problems in our profitability. What has happened, I would say, over the last 8 weeks is that we see some positive signals. First of all, the Chinese people are out again and they do sports from the first day. Here's some pictures of the marathon in Beijing that we sponsor. And of course, as soon as they're out after all the COVID problems, they buy products, and they also now buy performance products. We all know that the market in China has been very life stylish, but now seeing that they also are buying more and more performance, and we feel we're strong in performance is, of course, a very good sign. We also have invested more and more in Chinese athletes. The first Chinese player, I know winning an ATP tournament in the U.S. Wu Yibing, he won Dallas Open 2 weeks ago, and I think he's ranked now top 6 in the world. And of course, that meant a lot of attention in China and he happened to be our player. And one of the big sports, I would say, events that actually happened in China this year. This is just one of the athletes that we have signed and are signing. We are accelerating to sign Chinese athletes in almost every sport. Not only in sports where we are currently globally in but also local sports. And of course, that is to try to exploit as quickly as we can the comeback of China as a market, but also the growth that we experienced to see in Performance and to be very honest with you, it is, of course, a safer bet using celebrities from sports than it is to do it from fashion, music and non-sports because we're still uncertain how the reaction is because the BCI issue is still kind of over us. And there's still no clarity if the celebrities from other areas are really going to go live on social media for brands like us. We will do the first test and see, and it's starting a little bit with, I would call it, B celebrities but I think none of us have gone the full way and it's still something that we are looking forward and hopefully see a positive reaction on. As I said, people coming back to the stores. Here's another one to buy our T-Toe or Terrace shoes. And again, I cannot remember having seen people lining up to buy adi products for a long, long time. If it was YEEZY and here you see that is happening also in China. When you get to Europe, it's clearly that there is too much inventory, not only from us or not only with us, but I think in general, many retailers have too much coverage. That means too much inventory compared to the sales. And especially, if you follow all the sector, you will see that a lot of online people are, of course, overbought, which makes it a little bit difficult and high discounts. I think we're still uncertain about the macroeconomic inflation. I think it's also fair to say that we and I think many other brands maybe have overpriced the product a little bit. So overpriced product in certain categories, together with too much inventory causes, of course, even more discount, which is not healthy for the business, and of course, not also for brand heat. But one thing is for sure, since Europe is our home ground, you should expect from us, and we should prove to you that we should be the leader in our home market, and that is, of course, one of our ambitions. If you look at North America, repeat myself again, to be successful globally, you need to be successful in the U.S. And I think it's fair to say that it's the most difficult market for non-American brands. Inventory level in the industry, even higher there, not only with the retailer, but also with the brands. And you know that in the U.S., discount is a drug. I would say, 1.5 years ago, we almost had no discounting and both the brands and the retailers were making their best results ever. Now we're back to over inventory. And here we go again. And of course, it's hurting both retailers and us. And again, it's something we need to work through in 2023. The combination of these 2 things is a very, I would say, challenging order book for the second half. Retailers is very careful committing to orders in the volumes that we would hope for. That's why, of course, we are now doing everything we can to convince the retailers that we are the brand of choice going into '24 and that we have changed or trying to change our attitude very, very much to be a service-oriented brand also for the retailers and then especially in the U.S. On the positive side, our partners in the U.S., I think Patrick, winning the MVP at the Super Bowl probably being the hottest male athlete in the U.S. right now is, of course, a positive for us. I think also in basketball, with Chapter 1 and Chapter 2, which has been our launches, we have made huge progress. And you know, again, I told you many times, the reason why you invest in basketball on the court is, of course, to sell off court. And again, needless to say, the archive that we have in basketball is huge. And I think what you see in the next couple of months when we're launching Fear of God with Jerry Lorenzo, you will see take of this both on the performance side and on the street side, you've never seen before, and I'm extremely optimistic about that because I think it's going to be a game changer. So with all that, what does that mean? What are we going to do in the near future? First of all, focus on our people and culture. Our business is 50% rational and 50% emotional. I still believe that there's no machines who can take the emotions away from human beings. That's why this is our most important resource. Adidas used to have, in my opinion, a very unique culture, which I was part of even many years ago. And we need to find that culture again and strengthen it because I think it's something unique and unbeatable if we give all the people the reason to have fun and be part of a successful adidas. The optimization of the business model going forward, surprise, surprise, of course, will be more service oriented towards wholesale. You will see that our ratio will trend towards wholesale automatically because as we stop selling YEEZY, you will see that the DTC share will go down. And then I will not even give you a target what I think it will be because I think as we work through the next 12 months, we will find a new ratio, which is probably the more healthy one. And then we can start to discuss what the differences are between the different markets and also what the profitability is. It is not true in the current environment with so much clearance that wholesale is the least profitable channel. I think that is a big misunderstanding depending on how you're actually looking at the business. Global, regional, local, not a surprise to you. The world is not becoming more central or global. It's very, very hard to find products that are doing well in all the regions and all the markets. The business models are also different. And for us, having creation centers in Tokyo, Shanghai, in the U.S., now also in India and Europe, we will grow more local. And here, you see some examples of what we did in China for Chinese New Year. And it's obvious that you will look at different dimensions of the business model and that will be much more local than adi has been before. Speed and agility. Our previous friends, and I'm sure more of you listening to this call had the best what should I say, year in '22 and I would say that because of the speed and agility that PUMA had. And I think that's something that we all have to get. There is a big, big need in a market that is changing to be much faster than adi currently is. And then brand heat, there are many ways to get brand heat. But unfortunately, there is not a phone number where you can call and say, I want more brand heat. It's the sum of everything we do. It's athletes, it's teams, federations, it is, of course, celebrities, the street culture. But also here, it is very, very local, and we need to have people in the different markets as close as we can to the consumer to make sure that we invest where it really makes sense and of course, try to get as much brand heat as we can. And as you know, adi has always been able to come back again when the brand has been down. And I'm convinced we will do it again. You know this slide is from 1993. It's the core of the business, and it hasn't changed. Design development, sourcing, marketing, sales and distribution is the core. It is wholesale or DTC and in the center of this is consumer. And everything we do in this company should be focused on this, and it's actually to support it and a lot of the tech things are just to support this and make us better in doing it, and we should never forget that because this is -- and is going to say the core of the business and our income stream. So in '23, we will build the base for the future by focusing our people. Product is king, and I think we have a lot of good stuff in the pipeline, but we will have to do better and quicker. The consumer should be in the center of all our attention. The retailer should be our friends and partner. And then, of course, we are there for the athlete and not the other way around. And I think if we do this over time, we will again be the best sports brand in the world. Short term, the geopolitical tensions are there. We, of course, hope that things will come down, but we don't have any impact on that. The challenges are still there, although at least for the business, when I look at prices of raw materials, when I look at freight costs, when I look at a lot of the cost driver, that seems to ease but inflation and different what should I say, developments are still uncertain. So we have to have that into account. And then, of course, as an industry and also for us as a company, the inventory levels are too high, and we will then have to fight on the discount side to maintain and hopefully in the future, build our margin. With all that in mind, we told you already a couple of weeks ago what our outlook is. We are looking at a high single-digit decline in our sales and breakeven profit on our ongoing operations. This is based on not selling any existing YEEZY inventory which then like-for-like, we then take EUR 1.2 million away from our top line and EUR 500 million from our EBIT. On top of that or below of that, we are looking actually at a loss of EUR 700 million, which will happen if we write off and not sell any of the inventory that we have of YEEZY, that is the EUR 500 million. I mean all the things going on in the business, we are looking at a one-off of around EUR 200 million, which then, if you put it all together, brings you to the minus EUR 700 million. Should any of this change, then, of course, things will improve. They should not worsen and we will, of course, report to you when things start to move in a better direction. This morning, just before or after we release the numbers, we also went out with a release about the changes in our Executive Board. First of all, Harm extended his contract by 5 years. So he's now running parallel with me. We know each other since 30-ish years. And to be very honest with you, he was one of the conditions that I even took the job. Harm has all the experience, knowledge and attitude that we need to turn this company around. And for me to have a very strong CFO that also understands the business, although he doesn't understand football, but he knows a lot about the other side. He will be my most important partner and make sure that we, together, do all the right things. Then we have a change on the commercial side, Roland Auschel, having been with us for 33 years, has decided to leave. Roland has done a lot of good stuff for this company. And I think many people would say, adi will not be where we are if it wasn't for him. And I have known him also for more than 30 years, and we have over the last 2 months, have a lot of conversations. We have then decided that one of his, I would call, trainees, Arthur, which has worked with the company, I think, for 25 years, will take over his role. A very natural, I would say, evolution. He's an adidas guy up and down. He's run Originals. He's been in different sales roles. He's worked in strategy and he is one of, I think, the most Three Striped branded persons on the globe. I'm very, very happy that these 2 guys can work in a transition and I'm sure Roland will go in and out of this building and be a friend of adidas for the rest of his life. And again, a big thank you to him and a lot of expectations on Arthur. Then on the brand side, brand for us means creative, marketing and the business units. Brian came in, I think, 4 weeks after COVID. Has had a difficult time, of course, working almost not meeting his team, probably the worst timing that you could have in the role of that. Brian has spent a lot of time and energy of doing changes. But when you have a new CEO coming in like me and you have so many things that you want to do on the brand side, very difficult. So therefore, we decided that this guy will actually take over brand. That does not mean that I will decide everything we should do, but it means that all the business units, all the creatives will have a direct access to me, and this is to speed up. Probably sad for Brian because he's a really, really good guy. But I think in the interest of the company and the organization, this was a change that we then agreed upon. Sending here, Brian will stay on for a while to help in the transition. He will stay a friend, and I'm sure he will be Three Stripe branded for a long time. And yes, that's the changes. That means that the brand or the company will be led by this. We talked about me, Arthur and Harm. Amanda will stay on leading the human resources and the culture and Martin is running global operations and IT and that's the team we're then going into, what should I say, the second half of this game. We're currently down 0-2 but we think we can actually turn things around. So with that, I think we've spoken enough. So I'll hand over to Sebastian, and he will tell you what to do.

Sebastian Steffen

executive
#7

Exactly. So Frances, we're now ready to move into the Q&A session.

Operator

operator
#8

[Operator Instructions] We have the first question from Zuzanna Pusz from UBS.

Chris Huang

analyst
#9

This is Chris Huang from UBS, asking on behalf of Zuzanna Pusz. I have 2 bigger picture questions for Bjorn, please. Firstly, on the sports focus, in the annual report and the presentation just now, you mentioned the need to refocus on sports, start the brand DNA. There seems to be a clear change given that the brand has increased its exposure to the Lifestyle business to almost 50% of sales in recent years. So we're just wondering what's your view on the ideal Lifestyle and Performance sales split? And is it right to assume that given the technology involved, the sports performance business tends to carry a lower gross margin on average and more fashion-driven product. So that's my first question. And my second question is about the 2024 margins. According to your outlook, you mentioned the plan to return to profitability in 2024. I appreciate that but is not the strategic update yet, so you won't be able to share much when it comes to your 2024 margin plan. But given the magnitude of profit drop in 2022 and also '23, would you be able to help us understand a little bit more about how we should think of the cadence of the margin recovery trajectory in the coming years. Is it fair to assume that and they'd be more beneficial for the brand to maybe focus initially on sales growth instead and slowly build up from breakeven to the long-term double-digit EBIT margin? Or is the underlying profitability of this business currently well higher with the brand being well invested. So the margin is just at the moment, overshadowed by one of cost. Any color on that would be super helpful.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#10

First of all, you are right that we should have an even higher sport focus when it gets to what we do, and that includes not focusing only on the big sports but also go into smaller sports because I think that will make us different than all the other brands. And I do think that adi should keep the DNA of not being a copy of Nike, but we should stand on our own feet. You are also right that if you measure the real Performance product and you compare them to Lifestyle product, the margin on Lifestyle is normally higher. But where you're not right is that it's a share of 50-50 because a lot of Performance product also goes Lifestyle. It means that the consumer in the end decides if a product is street or performance. So I think there's many categories where up to 80% of the product goes on the street. If you take football, it's not the case because no one is running around with football boots. But if you take running, most running shoes are never run in. If you take basketball shoes, most basketball shoes, especially if they're from classics or original is also not played in. So I think the street business is much, much bigger than 50% but I think for the brand, we need to make sure that we never ever lose its focus on performance. And when you see the development, I'm actually very relaxed when it gets to that because we are making progress in all the performance categories that we are in. And the pipeline on performance is very good. And I don't think that will be our issue. I think on the marketing side and the visibility, we have divested from certain sports teams, federations that we need to get back again to get the visibility to keep the credibility. And then as we said earlier today is that the Lifestyle side which ironically is where we have a bigger archive than anybody else and where the trend in the market has gone back to the '90s and the '80s, we have not exploited that the way that, for example, Nike has done and this is where we need to do a much, much better job. When it gets to the margin targets for '24 and going forward, I think it would be very premature for me to give you that after 7 weeks here in the office. But those who know me know that I always said that a good running company, this industry should run at a double-digit EBIT. This is where adi has been. And with the scalability that we have, we should definitely be there. At what time we will be there and how we will combine a margin increase with a leverage on our operating cost and what that trajectory is, I think it's too early to say. But I'm very confident that we can get more leverage on our cost base. And of course, the margin is now damaged by so many things and especially inventory that does not mirror any of the things that we see in the future. But '23 is to, what should I say, a cleanup, a lot of, I would call it, old mess and actually be a clean company, again, that the consumer and the retailer and ourselves see what I call a normal business. And I would appreciate if we can leave it by that instead of flying in a spreadsheet now to define what the different components are because I think it's too early. But I can promise you that I will deliver your 10% EBIT before I leave this company.

Chris Huang

analyst
#11

Okay. That's super clear. Just a little small clarification from my side, if I may. Is it fair to -- it sounds like double-digit margin in the long term is I'm quite confident. But in terms of your initial focus, is it fair to assume that maybe benefit -- it is going to be more beneficial for the brand to focus initially on sales growth and while margin slowly builds up? Or how should we think about that?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#12

Well, first, you need to think about that I have a YEEZY business that is disappearing. So I'm actually losing sales. And then I have inventories that I need to sell and clear. So there's 2 negative impacts, both on my top line and my bottom line. That's why we, this year, had no sales growth, but we say high single-digit decline. And as we do that, of course, we will have growth again next year. But if that growth is 5%, 10% or 15%, I think we will need to talk about when we see how quickly we are cleaning up the things we have today. That's why I'm very careful saying it. But going forward, and again, not a surprise, I think that a company like ours should have double-digit growth and put some of that growth to the bottom line and some of that growth to investment in marketing. And that's always been the recipe, and I think it's the same here. I do hope, though, that the scalability that we have is that the recovery that we can have on the bottom line is quicker than what you've seen me working in other companies. But what speed, how quick and when it turns, again, let us get a little bit more time.

Operator

operator
#13

The next question comes from Graham Renwick from Berenberg.

Graham Renwick

analyst
#14

Just on the turnaround where you talk about 2023 as being a transition year, building that base for '24 and '25. Just wondered what's captured in the EUR 200 million of strategic costs? And does that already include any organizational changes or any bigger investment into marketing and the commercial proposition? And do you think that level of investment is already sufficient to start to drive that turnaround and to drive market share gains from 2024 because you already appear pretty confident on the product pipeline heading into next year, which is going to be a big sports event year, of course? And then secondly, just on the business improvement plan. It was announced before your arrival, Bjorn, EUR 700 million of net income benefits. I just wondered if you still feel that they're fully achievable this year? Or will any element of that plan be scale back or possibly changed under your new strategy, particularly in context of having to reinvest more into the business?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#15

Since these are things that happened before me, I think it's fair that actually Harm answers it. So I don't say something wrong. So Harm, you take over.

Harm Ohlmeyer

executive
#16

Yes, I'd probably start Graham. With a EUR 700 million business improvement plan, of course, that is fully reflected in our guidance that we gave, whether it's underlying and a breakeven company or if you would decide to write down the inventory of EUR 500 million, we get to the minus EUR 700 million. So it's fully baked in there. And as we said the last time, this is not all in comparison to '22. This is mitigation actions as well because we saw FOBs increasing, we negotiated some of the freight contracts as well to bring that one down, we kept our ratios and marketing going into '23 on a lower net sales base. So compensated policies. So all of that is reflected. There are puts and takes. But overall, we mitigated the cost increases that we have seen. We also had some onetime costs in Q4, where there was a closure of the one other the retail store, where there was some severance to rightsize the organization that was reflected in Q4, and we will take the benefits of that going into '23. So all of that has happened. And again, all of that is not a comparison to '22, but it's mitigating actions. Some is actually a reduction compared to '22 as well. And then, of course, when it comes to additional EUR 200 million in '23, this will be part of our strategic review. And again, bear in mind, Bjorn is only here for 2 months. So we have looked at a lot of things. I expressed my opinion about what we should do and should not do, but we need to vet all these things to a new team in place now and will come forward. But of course, it will be all elements whether we need to invest more, whether we need to review some of the new stores or reduce the organization. So all of this, but again, we don't want to be too detailed right now, too specific, but we believe EUR 200 million would do a lot to get to profitable growth in '24, and that shouldn't take anything away from what we need to invest around the Olympics or the European Championship on home turf in '24. So we're well prepared for that.

Operator

operator
#17

The next question comes from Erwan Rambourg from HSBC.

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#18

Erwan Rambourg from HSBC. Good to hear you, Bjorn, and good to hear you as well, Harm and Sebastian. Just wanted to follow up a bit on the long-term algorithm of growth. And again, I'm not asking for a long-term guidance, but when we look at the fact that you were in a sort of duopoly 10, 12 years ago with Nike, they have an algorithm of growth of high single to low double-digit sales growth and eventually mid- to high teens EBIT margins. I'm wondering, with the exception of scale, notably in the U.S., if there's any structural reason for you not to go to those levels once we have the big hiccups behind us, and then just talking about the big hiccup of the day, looking at YEEZY, I was just a bit confused by a few press articles around the solutions to YEEZY because my understanding, but please correct me if I'm wrong, is that you cannot sell YEEZY for reputational risk reasons. And at the same time, you can't destroy the product for the planet. So I'm just wondering what options do you have to treat the YEEZY stock that you have today?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#19

I ask you. So if you can't sell and you can't destroy, what's your option?

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#20

Well, that's why I'm confused.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#21

Well, I just -- I tried to describe the situation that depends on who you speak to, people will say, you cannot destroy it because it's a sustainability issue, right? So please don't destroy and on the other side, please don't sell because you have a reputation issue. So if you say you're confused, I can just say that's the fact, and that's why we haven't made a decision on it because it's a very complicated issue. I think that from the one extreme to selling the product normally, which we would have done before, booked EUR 1.2 billion in sales and EUR 500 million in profit. That's one extreme. And that carries a lot of reputational risk. The other side is to say we burn it or we do whatever it takes then to destroy it and it disappears, then you have another issue. And between that, of course, there are different solutions. We could sell the product at cost, and it will be a zero thing. We could sell it with a small margin and give the margin away for different donations. We can sell them with more margin and give more donations. I think the goal that we have is to do what the probability is that it damages us the least, and that we do something good. And that's what we're talking to. Many interesting part is people that has been hurt by what should I say, this situation and are discussing what they think is the best option. From a timing point of view, you should not forget that when all these things happened, a lot of products were still in production. Meaning that we and the brand had to make the decision, should we finish the product or should we just stop it. And in the interest of 10,000 of people that are working in the factories, adidas decided to continue to produce all the components and then ship them to different destinations. And it's just these last weeks and days that this inventory has actually showed up in the places where they can be treated or can be sold. So we couldn't really do anything before now but now at least from a logistic point of view, the product is there and we can decide what to do. But there is still a lot of uncleared what should I say, conversations with different parties that is going on. And at the time, when we think we have all the facts, we and management will make a proposal and then, of course, also discuss it with our Supervisory Board because, as you can imagine, this is a pretty sensible case and not an easy one. So that is...

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#22

So you could eventually end up making a big gesture to a charity or to...

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#23

Of course, of course. But the people that are saying, send shoes to Turkey or somewhere that where people don't have shoes or there has been a tragedy happening, I think you agree that this is not normal shoes. So if you did that, they will come back again because the value of the product is not the physical value of the ingredients. It is the premium because it's the branded merchandise that is sold at a high price. So I can tell you since I started here, I probably got 500 different business proposals from people who would like to buy the inventory. But again, that will not necessarily be the right thing to do so. A very difficult sensitive situation. And I can just repeat. If you look at that business, there's no doubt that Ye is one of the most creative people that have ever been on the planet. I think the way this was taken to market is probably the best, I would say, go-to-market job that any brand has ever done and it's very sad that this is falling apart.

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#24

Okay. And then maybe on the question of how would you compare to Nike on a very long-term approach?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#25

Yes. If I say, of course, we will beat them, then I'm in trouble. I do think that our business model should be different than Nike's. But I think going forward, there's no reason over long term that we should not be performing like Nike is doing. But will that happen tomorrow? No. But I mean, we have all the ingredients. We are global. We have the history, we have the archive, we have the resources. We should have the talent. So no, not really.

Erwan Rambourg

analyst
#26

Excellent. That's great to hear. Welcome, and I hope to speak soon.

Operator

operator
#27

The next question comes from Geoff Lowery from Redburn.

Geoff Lowery

analyst
#28

Just one question really. Can you help us understand what's really going right or wrong at the product creation level? I'm just struck by how adidas has been capable of getting something so right and yet missing so badly. Is this just a case of speed? Is it a case of organization? What if you had to give us sort of one or two things that really sort of summarize it. Would you attribute to that sort of hit and miss quality too.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#29

Again, I have to be careful coming from the outside. I think COVID hurt adidas a lot because I think when other brands were trying to be very fast and flexible and actually chase the business wherever it was, I think adi was very strategic, and we're going for growth. And I think we're much too optimistic about where the market is. Don't forget that adi was extremely successful before COVID. I mean, a tremendous growth in China, tremendous profit in China. We talked about YEEZY and had the momentum. And then COVID hits and then you have a strategy change that is going for more growth and more DTC. And I just think that the circumstances didn't fit that. So I do think that the circumstances was making it difficult to reach those targets, and that made things difficult.

Operator

operator
#30

Next question comes from Warwick Okines from BNP.

Alexander Richard Okines

analyst
#31

Similar line of question really. Your comments to me suggest that you don't really think adidas has got a problem about product innovation, and it's more about how you go to market through marketing and channels. Is that a fair assessment? And does it make a turnaround easier? And what do you need to do in order to do a better job in Lifestyle?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#32

No, I think what I said is that the criticism that adi has brought innovation and performance is not true. Again, I always asked what was the last innovation that Nike brought because you're always comparing it to that. And when I look here at the 3D printed shoes. So I look at the adizero, I look at the Predator or I look at the stock issues that I know, but you don't know about. I do think that the Performance side is actually in good hands. I take the transition into Lifestyle when it gets to creating trends, creating stories, using your archive, tweaking your archive has been too slow. And that might have to do with empowering people to be more creative. I think it has to do with being more executional and strategic. So I think I'm disagreeing that adi has all the resources to bring innovation, both from a Lifestyle point of view and a Performance. But I do think that the Lifestyle side has been hindered by putting too much product on the market that has burked being too high inventory because of 2 optimistic sales plans, therefore, being hurt again on the discount side and that's why the Lifestyle side and the brand heat has been missing. At the same time, doing product Moncler, Balenciaga and Gucci within 18 months is also too much and again, that is probably because COVID and the timeline and supply made it all be delayed and then certainly, the delayed projects went into the on-time project and certainly was all at once and then I think some of the street culture relevant things, if it's Pharrell or Lorenzo or Beyonce, you have to remember that a lot of these artists and the people have used potential has not been out there for the last 3 years. There hasn't been any festivals, there hasn't been any tours. There hasn't been any releases. So I think a lot of the places where we, again, can create brand heat and a lot of excitement has kind of been hampered by many things. And at the scale that adi is, it has not been enough. So speed, empowerment, timing, discipline are probably the elements that has made it difficult but the ingredients are there, believe me. I mean we have designers that are very talented. We have sample rooms. We have technologies, and that's why also I'm probably more optimistic than you guys are.

Operator

operator
#33

The next question comes from Jurgen Kolb from Kepler.

Jurgen Kolb

analyst
#34

Welcome Bjorn to adidas, on the other side of the street. Two parts of the questions from my side. One is you mentioned Scheinfeld and it sounds as this year you are thinking about maybe rolling out a little bit more on production, but correct me if I'm wrong, is that on your mind to maybe become or gain a greater control over your own production lines? And if so, is that going to be meaningful? Or is that just really for special makeups that you have in mind? And the second thing, going into smaller sports, I appreciate I think this is where the brand stands. This is where the visibility is. At the same token, however, I remember when adidas had the strategy to get out of these smaller brands because of the increased complexity. Now what is the right approach here? Is it correct to be in the smaller sports for visibility? Or is the complexity problem from a productivity point of view.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#35

First of all, Scheinfeld is a factory 40 minutes away who are traditional making shoes for 50 years. And I think what I tried to signal is that shoe competence is not easy to find today, at least not in Europe. And I think we have something that we can utilize more. The scalability that, of course, not that you will do millions of pairs because the nearshoring on the shoe production back to Europe, I don't think will happen but I do think that we have something unique that no one else has and that we could combine that to educate people to have creative people work there, to do collabs there, to make samples there. And I think even to make small series of European German-made products because I think it means something. And when we work with luxury parties that we do, I think we can take part of that production maybe if we do it the right way. So I look at that as a resource and not as a problem. The smaller sport, again, I wasn't here when they should divest. It's obvious that if you go into a small sport, that will increase complexity instead of increasing productivity. But then the question is what's the hilo effect on. I have always thought when I was at adi in the '90s and also later that some of the creativity coming out of adi and design or development and technologies was coming from the fact that they were working on smaller sports. And again, if that is the result, then it's worth a lot more than adding 100 SKUs to the line. So I do think that we need to be careful and not being overanalytical. Efficiencies and KPIs on productivity, I don't think it's not what is going to drive us. It is our creativity, speed and agility, and that will bring much more margin than trying to find more efficiencies on the SKU count. So again, I'm a sport romantic. I think adidas levels is sport romantic. I think putting that DNA in again will make us different than any other brand, and that is for me, a small marketing cost compared to many other things we do so. And I do think there's a big agreement about that. When you talk to the designers and the product people and even to the financial people, they all say, yes, this is what we should do because it's our DNA, and it makes us different. Next time you hear you should go into our archive and see how many, what should I say, special product we have made through the years and what these special products, again, does have done for the in-line product, then the connection is there, and we need to do more of that. I think we have standardized too much and we come to what should I say, almost boring in the way we breathe and go to market on our, what should I say, in line product, especially on the Lifestyle side.

Jurgen Kolb

analyst
#36

And maybe a small spoiler. Any specific sports you're thinking of?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#37

Anything where you sweat and come in medals.

Operator

operator
#38

The next question comes from Cedric Lecasble from Stifel.

Cedric Lecasble

analyst
#39

I have 2 also. So first one on your distribution networks today, could you comment maybe on the wholesale organization on your store network on your E-Com and digital ecosystem? What needs be fixed and what are you happier on today? And the second one is on China, low base in '22, sometimes a recovery already. When do you think China can definitely be back into the equation? And do you think China can come back to the kind of old top line growth and profitability in maybe a more urban competition. Interested in having your thoughts.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#40

I think that we have a EUR 3 billion business in China in a very difficult time without having been able to do real meaningful marketing and people being in locked down. If you take the lockdown away and you also say that we can start to do marketing, again, it's obvious that we will have growth. Will the growth come for free and will it be as easy as it maybe was? No. But does China have a huge potential for us with their population and their growing population in sports? Yes, definitely. And again, I don't have a crystal ball but my feeling is that China will again turn in to be a major growth vehicle for us when it starts to grow. But I'm not saying that it will turn around this year, and you should count that in to be a huge contributor. I'm just saying that midterm, I'm counting on China coming back, and that's why we are investing in both creation centers and more sourcing in China again for local for local. When it gets to your -- help me again -- distribution. When you look upon what has happened already, then you see that the YEEZY business disappearing, which was mainly a DTC business, you will see that our DTC share will full dramatic in the next quarters. Then the question is what is an optimal balance between DTC and wholesale. And I can't give you the number. But what I can tell you is that we need to be very service-minded for the retail partners. We should be as visible as Nike with our retail partners, we should own part of the wall and our retailers should make money with us. And we should make it very, very clear to the retail partners that, that is what we want. And that is a change of mind in the sense that we need to stop talking on the DTC. Does that mean that DTC is not important? No, it does not. We should have a very professional E-Com platform. We should be continuing to invest in all the applications and the analytics we're doing but we need to make sure that we become much more full price on E-Com. Today, there's much -- too much discount and there's too much inventory sitting on that side. On brick-and-mortar, there are markets that need full-price normal stores, all those stores -- all those markets who doesn't have a big multi-branded retail business, India, probably parts of China, maybe some other markets like Turkey, then we need some Hilo stores in our major cities like New York, like Paris, like now in Seoul. And then, of course, we need factory outlets wherever factory outlets is a major part of it where I don't see that we need to have our own stores is in markets that has a lot of multi-branded retail and where we do normal stores, just to have stores in a mall or in a shopping suite where all our, what are -- retail partners are because that doesn't make sense. So I think it will be a more targeted brick-and-mortar strategy and it will continue to be a strong E-Com strategy. But I think the way we go to market, I think it will be more wholesale first and then DTC afterwards. And then we will see how long that takes us.

Operator

operator
#41

The next question comes from James Grzinic from Jefferies International.

James Grzinic

analyst
#42

Bjorn, just I guess a couple of clarification questions from me. The first one is, I'm unclear on your thoughts on Sportswear. And generally, the progress segmentation that we saw introduced last year. But to what extent can you work with that? To what extent do you think you need to change that and secondly, do I get it right that you're saying your ambition is basically to compound double-digit growth for the business. That's what you're looking for?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#43

I mean, to take the first thing first. I think that when we get out of the clearance that we set the base, then I think double-digit growth should again be our target is, again, in a world where we don't have pandemic, war or anything happening. But the normal world, again, I think that adi should have the ambition of growing 10%, again, yes. When it gets to the segmentation, this is where we need to be very specific. I think when you saw the logos, we have the regional logo, we have the performance logo. We have the sportswear logo, we have the TERREX logo. I think the balance of that is probably okay, but I think the sportswear side of it, we need to stretch more and make sure that we're more commercial and that the collections breed more. I think COVID, the fact that people haven't traveled that much, the inspiration of the creatives and maybe also the freedom haven't been big enough, I think there's more work to do there and that we are not at the end of that game. That is correct. And then the question is the segmentation on this brand or these logos then to our retail partners, I think there's a lot of moving parts there, and I don't think we're at the end of that. So we have, I think, all the brand marks we need but how we're using those brand marks and at what price points do they start and end and where do we put the effort. There's a lot of work to do there. And as said, speed and agility in the local markets to exploit these brand marks where we can find business and where the consumer is. I don't think -- we are not even close to being good at that, to be honest. So there might be changes also in the way we look at this. But we don't need to create another logo, if that's what you're asking for. We have all the marks that we need. But I'm not convinced that we have the right mix between them. And I'm also not sure that the segmentation on how we use them towards the different segments and the different retail partners is the correct one.

James Grzinic

analyst
#44

Understood. And I guess as a follow-up on that. I guess my point was trying to understand how much you need to change the base and how much the pro architecture is loaded into the channels up until one. So are you mostly -- to what extent you're committed as a business to what we saw last year and through to what point, we're trying to get a sense from that perspective.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#45

And this is, again -- I mean if you look at it now, we are already now signing off the collection for Spring/Summer '24 as we speak. We have the markets in today. And again, in a normal world that would be locked in, I think today, because of the changes, and one of the reasons why I put myself on top of the brand is, of course, to speed up decisions where we need to do things different than the calendar. And I'm making myself available for the different business units so that they can actually be allowed to speed up things and challenge the calendar. So you will see products that were meant to be in '24 being pulled forward to '23. You will see volumes of, for example, the T-Toe collection being increased dramatically in '23, even if the plan was different, you will see products that were meant to be innovation be pulled into the first half of '24. So you will see us taking more risk and speed up things because that's what we need to do. We cannot just drive business as normal when we're not performing. So there is -- I don't know what you can call it, but there is a wake-up call to get speed in and to challenge certain rules and regulations, why things are slow, yes, definitely.

Operator

operator
#46

The next question comes from Edouard Aubin from Morgan Stanley.

Edouard Aubin

analyst
#47

So 2 questions from me. On China, sorry to come back on that. But Bjorn, could you please comment on kind of the sell-out selling dynamic year-to-date and kind of what you expect to a certain extent to pan out in this year. Obviously, you don't have a crystal ball, but your sense. And related to China, I mean, obviously, you took back a lot of inventory. So I guess you're going to be -- some of it is going to be sold in outlets or discounted? And to what extent that could impact the brand desirability in the next 2, 3 years? That's number one. And then question number 2 on your balance sheet and what it implies in terms of buybacks and dividends and so on. So adidas used to be net cash ex-lease liabilities, you're now net debt. How do you see the net debt situation evolve throughout the years? And what about your share buyback program? I think you have EUR 2 billion more to go. You've not talked about that in the release as far as I've seen. And what it could imply? I mean, should your net debt increase this year, what it could imply for your dividend next year?

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#48

I'll start, and then Harm will take the last one. I mean the China model has been a push model. Remember that almost all the adi stores in China are owned by retail partners. We sell into them 8, 9 months before, they sell-through in a quarter. And based on the sell-through, we take product back and we flushed them in outlets and also online. We have reduced this, I would say, almost dramatically. So we are delivering a lot less into the stores. And we're trying, as we speak, it's not been done yet to go into reduce the amount even further by, for example, doing 30% of the volume in season, meaning that you're producing local for local, 30% of what you think is the need and not even take orders on it. That will partly take you from a push model to a pull model. Even before we have done that, given the reduction of the buys and not pushing the way I think it has done before, you will see less takebacks and you will see less inventory. Having said that, the amount of inventory in the China market from everybody has been high for the last 3 years. This has not been only an adi issue, but because of the size of adi it has, of course, had a bigger impact on adi. But the China model needs to be more vertical. It needs to be more local for local, and it needs to be run more by the local people at almost a close supply chain. And we are working on that very, very, I would say, focused as we speak, to make it a more pull model than a push model. But that has had no impact on the business yet because it's not in place. But I think it could be in place at the back end of this year, so it could be fully utilized in '24.

Harm Ohlmeyer

executive
#49

Yes, on the balance sheet, you're absolutely right. The net debt is higher than we originally planned for by the end of '22, with a consequence also on the rating that I explained earlier. And of course, it's our ambition now in '23 to course correct that, the key enabler for that will be reducing inventories because we are buying significantly less than utilizing the inventory that we have to turn into cash. But we should also keep in mind that we returned EUR 3.1 billion to shareholders in '22, EUR 2.5 billion in share buyback and EUR 600 million in dividends. And of course, our priority is probably not fully in '23, but starting to prepare for fully meeting our rating KPIs again in '24 and until then, you should not expect a share buyback in '23, unlikely also in '24 because first, we need to get the authorization at the Annual Shareholders Meeting in May, which we are proposing to get the authorization because we bought back almost 10% of our capital. And then again in '23, very unlikely and then we'll take count again going into '24. And I know that EUR 2 billion outstanding from originally announced share buyback program, but that is secondary right now. First, we want to make sure that we're generating cash again. Secondly, we want to invest into the company because we want to get prepared for growth again. Secondly, it would be dividends first and only then we would look at share buyback again. So be patient, stay tuned. But it's a focus right now to return to profitable growth first.

Edouard Aubin

analyst
#50

And Harm, I know you have many different moving parts this year and one of them being YEEZY in terms of the cash. But how do you see your net debt trajectory this year roughly?

Harm Ohlmeyer

executive
#51

Well, again, there are a lot of moving parts, right? I mean, when you look at our guidance and as you say, a lot depends on YEEZY. But whatever option we are choosing, it would probably preventing to write down the inventory. If you would sell that cost, I mean it's an easy cash in as well from a calculation but again, a lot of things depend on how quickly we clean the inventory, what are we buying at year-end, if we believe there is growth coming in '24 again, what is the reopening in China. So really, even if I would have it, I don't even have it in detail because we plan for different scenarios. And the most important thing is generating cash, but turning the company around to be prepared for profitable growth in '24. So '23 is a transition year. That's what we said.

Sebastian Steffen

executive
#52

Thanks, Ed and Frances, I'm afraid we're slowly running out of time. That's why we need to take the last question now, please.

Operator

operator
#53

Okay. They will be from Olivia Townsend from JPMorgan.

Olivia Townsend

analyst
#54

I have 2. The first one is on China. So I'm just wondering, it seems you've been talking a bit about bringing some marketing back into that region. Can you just talk about where that marketing level is versus where you would expect to get back to once you have a bit more of a recovery? And then the second is just a clarification question on the double-digit EBIT margin that you suggested could be achievable longer term. I'm just wondering, are you able to commit to a certain year for this? I think when you mentioned earlier, some people have taken that to mean around 2028. So I'm just wondering if you have a comment on that.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#55

I'll take '28, if that -- if you're happy with that. I think it's wrong after 7 weeks to commit to double-digit in a year. It could be quicker than '28, and it probably should be quicker than '28, to be honest with you. But I hope you can be patient and let us at least work through some months and show you that we are on the right track. And then we can formalize, I would say, a new strategy and tell you where that will bring us from an EBIT level. But I think we all agree around this table and at least in our management, and I think also in the company that if we don't deliver 10% EBIT with our scale and our brand, then we are not doing a good job. But we need to get there first before or we need to turn it around first before we promise you when. I think the China, what should I say, marketing thing, what I tried to say is that there is some positive things happening in China because people are out of the street to sports again. People are not isolated the way they used to be, and they're starting to buy again both Performance and Lifestyle. Of course, not at the same speed they did before COVID and BCI, but they are doing it. The marketing that we have done is that because sports is getting more attention and there are athletes doing well, we have given the Chinese team the freedom to invest in more athletes that we can showcase. For example, what you saw in Tennis, we are speaking to quite some of the so-called celebrities that used to do marketing before BCI. None of them have gone live yet, but at least there is now talks on a different level than it's been before. The hope is, of course, that when once celebrity starts to do postings that are more like marketing that there's no [indiscernible] being generated and that suddenly we can be back again where marketing that generates traffic and conversion, especially online is working. At that time, I can assure you that our marketing team in China will get budgets to do whatever is right to accelerate growth. So there's no limitation on there, what should I say, creativity and an investment level when things are possible again. But right now, there's kind of a touch and go. You saw hopefully in the presentation that we are, for example, spending money on pop-up stores to actually attract consumers. We have celebrities then coming into these stores. So without doing something which you call marketing. They are then visible in our business, and that's kind of sneaking I would say, marketing into our business again. And of course, I cannot tell you at what point in time things are normal again because if I knew, I would be a billionaire by telling it to everybody, right? So again, we are really what should I say, touching the market in a way that our local people are leading and then both Harm and myself are speaking to them at least twice a week. We currently have 30 Chinese people here now are building, working on product for '24, first time that they traveled to Europe in 3 years. And it's so nice to be back in the normal world again when it gets to what we used to do. And there is so much energy in the Chinese team because remember, they have basically been in and out of isolation for the last 2 years. And I would say there's quite some optimism. But again, don't get carried away and then put your spreadsheet up at 100% growth because that will not come. But I think there's some light at the end of the tunnel.

Sebastian Steffen

executive
#56

All right. So we just heard that there's no limitations to the support for the Chinese team. Unfortunately, there is some limitations to the time for this call, and that's why we need to wrap it up now. Thanks very much, Frances. Thanks very much, Bjorn and Harm. And also thanks very much to all of you for joining our call today. I'm sure we could have gone on for hours. I know that there is still a lot of questions outstanding. Feel free to reach out to any member of the IR team or myself if you have any questions. And we're all very much looking forward to seeing some of you over the next couple of weeks as we're traveling the world. And with that, thanks very much again for your participation. Have a good remainder of the day. All the best and bye-bye.

Bjorn Gulden

executive
#57

Stay healthy and buy adidas products.

Operator

operator
#58

Ladies and gentlemen, the conference has now concluded, and you may disconnect your telephone. Thank you very much for joining, and have a pleasant day. Goodbye.

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