Coats Group plc (COA) Earnings Call Transcript & Summary
March 3, 2022
Earnings Call Speaker Segments
Operator
operatorHello, everyone, and welcome to the Coats Group plc Full Year Results Call. My name is Bethany, and I will be your operator today. [Operator Instructions] I will now turn the call over to Victoria Huxster. Victoria, over to you.
Victoria Huxster
executiveGood morning, and welcome to the Coats Group Full Year 2021 Results Presentation. My name is Victoria Huxster, and I am the Head of Investor Relations at Coats. I'm here with Rajiv Sharma, CEO; and Jackie Callaway, CFO, and they are going to talk you through the results and outlook for the business. Without further ado, I will pass you over to Rajiv.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveGood morning, and welcome to our 2021 full year results presentation. I will start with the highlights and divisional performance. This will be followed by a presentation on our financials by Jackie. The presentation concludes with our outlook statement, after which we open up for Q&A. In this presentation, I refer to Apparel & Footwear division as A&F and Performance Materials division as PM. Last year's strong performance can be traced back to decisions and actions taken in 2020 during the height of COVID to support customers, suppliers and employees. These strong relationships are fueling our progress last year and this year. In 2021, we have seen robust demand recovery and accelerating growth. Sales grew by 29% versus 2020 and 6% versus 2019, supporting our expectations of a V-shaped sales recovery for Coats. We also took 2 percentage points of market share, the highest gain in a decade. We accelerated our progress in sustainability and signed up for ambitious climate change and circularity goals. Sales of our premium recycled polyester thread have grown 159% to $96 million, establishing a clear link between sustainability and commercial wins. In 2021, we launched 21 new products that delivered $37 million of sales, and most of it had good margins. Despite COVID-induced disruption, supply chain challenges and inflationary headwinds, the global Coats team delivered a strong 12.8% operating margin and over $100 million of free cash flow. Our leverage now stands at 0.7x, providing a strong platform to take advantage of attractive organic and inorganic investment opportunities to further accelerate growth in the future. The Board is pleased to propose a final dividend of $0.015 per share, which is a 15% growth against the final dividend in 2020. We see continued growth this year and now expect performance to be modestly ahead of our previous expectations for the year. Lastly, and very importantly, we have commenced a number of strategic projects in the group that should collectively deliver $50 million of uplift and incremental profit in 2024. More of this topic on the next slide. Improving customer service, supply chain resilience and overall cost base productivity is a key enabler to grow sales and profits faster than market. We have flagged labor availability challenges in the U.S. for some time and have now concluded that these are structural challenges. During the past 2 years of COVID, we have learned new ways to connect, collaborate and be more productive as individuals and as a company. With that in mind, we have commenced a number of strategic projects. This includes footprint and portfolio optimization in a few countries and associated SG&A costs. By investing $35 million of exceptional cash over 2 years, we expect to deliver $50 million of incremental adjusted operating profit in 2024. These strategic projects will allow us to mitigate the labor availability issues in the U.S. and return PM margins back to 2019 levels in the next 2 years. Our focus internally is to accelerate profitable sales growth and to transform the company to be even more successful in a post-pandemic world. Let me hasten to add that we will not provide more details on these strategic projects, and there are -- as there are several sensitivities and protocols that we need to follow. However, there will be regular updates with more details to the market over the next 24 months. The next update will be during our H1 results announcement. During the next few slides, I will talk about the market for both A&F and PM and how we performed during 2021 in each of these divisions. First, I'd like to start with a market backdrop in A&F. As you can see from the top left-hand chart, we have seen a strong market recovery in global A&F retail sales, but it's still below 2019 levels. The U.S. and China were particularly strong with Europe slower to recover. We expect global A&F retail sales to get back to 2019 levels this year. The demand recovery was robust across all categories and resulted from a combination of pent-up demand, buffer buying due to supply chain challenges and some normal restocking. The slide on the lower left-hand corner shows U.S. inventories improving, but still below 2019 levels. We expect normal inventory buildup in 2023. Last year, we saw unprecedented supply chain volatility with customers switching sourcing between geographies at short notice, competing for raw materials and increasingly using expensive airfreight. Companies that did well last year had strong brands, global supply chains, online channels and strong balance sheets. Brands focused from online, sports, athleisure, denim and mass market have done well last year. First, I'd like to start with the market backdrop in A&F. As you can see from the top left-hand chart, we have seen a strong market recovery in the global A&F retail sales, but it's still below 2019 levels. The U.S. and China were particularly strong with Europe slower to recover. We expect global A&F retail sales to get back to 2019 levels this year. The demand recovery was robust across all categories and resulted from a combination of pent-up demand, buffer buying due to supply chain challenges and some normal restocking. The slide on the lower left-hand corner shows U.S. inventories improving, but still below 2019 levels. We expect normal inventory buildup in 2023. Last year, we saw unprecedented supply chain volatility with customers switching sourcing between geographies at short notice, competing for raw materials and increasingly using expensive airfreight. Companies that did well last year had strong brands, global supply chains, online channels and a strong balance sheet. Brands that focused on online, sports, athleisure, denim and mass market did well last year. While the market has not yet recovered to 2019 levels, our A&F division has delivered 33% growth over last year and 5% growth over 2019. Growth ahead of market was enabled by 2 percentage points of market share gains from 21% to 23%. How did we do this? It's our strong customer relationships, supply chain resilience, operational delivery and talented teams. Winning with the winners and sustainability are a key part of our playbook. 43 of our top 50 brands now have sustainability targets. We offer our customers market-leading premium products, excellent support and technical services, reliability of supply and digital tools. Our global footprint and proximity to customers has remained a critical differentiator. Now let me turn to PM and start with an explanation of the new subsegments on this slide. In order to provide more clarity and better align to the growth opportunities for the PM business, we have changed the way we operate and report the PM subsegments. We are happy to help investors map the previous segmentation to the new segmentation. We have Personal Protection, which is about 40% of the divisional revenues; Composites, which is about 25%; and Performance Threads, which is roughly 35%. The medium-term growth rates expected for each subsegment are high single digit for Personal Protection, double digit for Composites and global GDP growth rates for Performance Threads. It is really important to stress that there is no change to the medium-term growth expectations of 6% to 9% for the entire PM division. Let me now talk a little bit about the subsegments. The personal protection market has seen a healthy recovery as industrial activity and workers' safety standards have risen. We have seen growth in thermal, cut, abrasion and electric or protective wear. Leading customers expect work wear to provide safety against multiple hazards and also be lighter and more comfortable to wear. In Composites, we are seeing a rapid expansion of the fiber-optic network with 65% of homes around the world still to be connected by fiber to home. Fiber demand is expected to grow 7% or more between 2021 and 2026. The energy market is expected to increase CapEx for exploration and production. We're also seeing an accelerated shift towards electric vehicles. These end market dynamics will be favorable to our Composites segment. Within Performance Threads, car production is expected to be up 9% in 2022 versus '21, although it is still not back to 2019 levels. The mature markets of tea bag and feminine hygiene remained robust with 5% growth during 2021. Lastly, sustainability is starting to be a factor in several industrial end markets. In the terms of our performance in PM, revenues recovered well in all segments with organic growth of 19% versus 2020, including a recovery in Personal Protection, which grew by 40% in November and December to end the year up 12% on an organic basis. The order book for Personal Protection remains strong. In Composites, we saw good commercial wins in the U.S. And you can also see here on the slide a picture of a new composites factory in Spain, which has 50% more capacity. In Performance Thread, we saw market share wins in automotive as well as a strong performance across all product ranges. Jackie will talk in more detail later about the margins. But excluding the U.S. business, PM margins were a healthy 14.4%. As already discussed, some of the strategic projects will enable global PM margins to return to at least 2019 levels next year. Let me talk about operational delivery and supply chain resilience. Our previous investment in technology and highly engaged teams allowed us to flex global supply chains to better serve customers. I am most proud of our operations teams who excelled in a tough environment. The backdrop has been difficult with COVID shutdowns in India and Vietnam, labor shortages in the U.S. as well as very difficult supply chain environment for everybody in our industry. We took swift action to mitigate inflationary pressures early with price and productivity. We were able to flex our global factory and distribution network to serve customers from multiple locations. Our strong supplier relationships allowed us to source the required input materials on time. Health and safety is our #1 priority. And as you can see, we have had the strongest performance to date in health and safety. Now let me cover innovation and sustainability and how these are critical to our future sales and margin growth. A key part of our company purpose is to make a better and more sustainable world. When we launched our sustainability strategy, pioneering a sustainable future, in 2019, we laid out ambitious targets for 2022 and 2024. Despite the past 2 years of COVID disruption, we remain committed to those targets and have made good progress on all 5 pillars. Let me pick out a couple of highlights here. In the social pillar, one of our 2019 targets was to have certification from externally reputed agencies like Great Place to Work. We committed to have 80% of our employees working in a Great Place to Work-certified site by 2022. Last year, we achieved 83%, reaching the target a year earlier. We also reached our energy reduction target of 7% a year early and expect to continue reducing energy intensity in 2022. We also delivered 159% growth in EcoVerde, our range of 100% recycled polyester products. Revenues grew from $37 million in 2020 to $96 million last year. We are on track to meet our 2024 commitment to have all premium polyester threads made from 100% recycled materials. Our fourth annual sustainability report has been published today. It has more details on our sustainability strategy, targets and performance. If you would like to discuss more on our sustainability strategy, please contact Victoria for a meeting. During 2021, Coats has added climate change and circularity to its existing focus areas of water, waste, energy, social and recycled materials. This builds on our strong internal culture of health and safety, diversity, equity and inclusion. We have committed to reduce emissions by 46% in this decade and reach net zero by 2050. By 2030, 70% of our global energy consumption will come from renewables, and all Coats products will be made completely independent of new oil extraction materials such as polyester and nylon. We will also shift to circularity, creating products and packaging solutions that enable recycling and reuse, both within our own operations and across the wider garment industry. As part of our sustainability strategy, we have earmarked $10 million to fund the scaling up of green technologies and materials that are relevant to our industry supply chain. We have begun to repurpose our Asia Innovation Hub to focus on the application of biomaterials. We are really proud of our sustainability journey and look forward to the future with confidence. Next, we have a short video in which Adrian Elliott, our Head of Apparel & Footwear, talks about why sustainability is important to our customers and how it gives us a competitive advantage. [Presentation]
Rajiv Sharma
executiveMoving on to innovation. We launched 21 new products that delivered $37 million of sales during the year. Examples of innovation within A&F includes Lattice Lite Eco, a revolutionary fiber-laying technology using sustainable materials to create footwear composite materials for the next generation of high-performance super shoes. We also launched EcoRegen, a biodegradable thread made from 100% lyocell that supports greater circularity in the apparel industry. In PM, we launched FlamePro Orbit that has lighter weight, higher performance, improved strength and more safety. We also developed Epic Patriot for U.S. non-flame retardant military applications with a specially formulated lubricant. Our innovation pipeline to deliver sales and margin growth remained strong. Our focus remains on 3 areas: first, personal protection with the growth in protective wear and multi-hazard protection; two, composites with the trend towards light-weighting for cars, sports footwear and the protection of data and cables or of energy pipelines; and three, biomaterials to accelerate the future of sustainable products. And with this, let me hand over to Jackie to present the financials.
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveThank you, Rajiv, and hello to everyone on the call. Let me start by summarizing the key highlights of our financial performance for 2021. We have seen strong and accelerating sales growth with 29% organic sales growth versus 2020 and 6% versus 2019. We saw sales growth across both of the A&F and PM businesses, driven by demand recovery and positive end market sentiment across all of our regions. At the beginning of 2021, we highlighted to the market the heightened inflationary pressures we expected to see during the year in the areas of raw materials, labor and freight. Coats is a company that operates well in an inflationary market and has a well-defined and tested playbook. Consequently, we moved quickly to mitigate these inflationary challenges by successfully implementing pricing actions and self-help programs. Our adjusted operating profit of $193 million was broadly back to pre-COVID levels and significantly up on 2020 as we saw demand flow back, and this performance was despite some further COVID disruption in Asia in the second and third quarters. On cash, we delivered a very strong $113 million of adjusted free cash flow, which was supported by a profit recovery as well as continued tight control of working capital and capital expenditure. This left our balance sheet in a particularly strong position with leverage of 0.7x and provides us with the funds to invest selectively in the most attractive organic and inorganic opportunities to deliver further shareholder value going forward. We have commenced a number of strategic projects, and we expect these projects to have a material impact on our operating margins with incremental operating profits of around $50 million by 2024. Slide 19 sets out the financial summary and our key financial metrics, which saw a significant improvement versus 2020. To aid comparison and to better assess the speed of recovery, we've also included the 2019 organic comparators. Let's now take a deep dive on these key financial metrics, starting with revenues. Overall, the year-on-year increase in group revenues was 29% on an organic constant currency basis, and this recovery was driven across both A&F and Performance Materials, although I note the A&F segment was harder hit by COVID in 2020. Against 2019, both of our businesses have performed very well with a return to pre-COVID 2019 sales levels, resulting in a 6% organic growth versus 2019 for the group. Group operating profits were up 75% on an organic constant currency basis to $193 million as the significantly increased volumes delivered upside margin benefits. As a result, margins recovered to 12.8%, and I will cover the key profit lever movements in more detail shortly. Versus 2019, operating profit and margins were slightly down. This was primarily due to the COVID disruption seen in our Asian businesses in the second and third quarters and the operational impacts on our U.S. business as a result of labor availability issues. Some of the strategic projects announced today will address these structural labor availability issues in the U.S. Finally, on this slide, EPS and free cash flow were both also well up year-on-year due to the profit recovery we have seen as well as lower interest charges and a normalization of our effective tax rate. I'll give more details on these items later. Now moving on to operating profits, and the next slide provides an overview of the movement in our group operating profits and margins during the year. Operating profit recovered quickly following the significant COVID disruption in 2020 as additional volumes positively benefited operating margins. We continued to offset inflationary pressures such as raw materials, freight and wages through price and productivity initiatives. Whilst we expect inflationary pressures to continue into 2022, our early actions on price and productivity initiatives leaves us well placed to continue to mitigate these as we have successfully done in the past. At an SD&A level, and as expected, we saw many of the temporary cost savings put in place in 2020 reversed, alongside a natural increase in variable cost of selling with the strong demand that we have seen. The above impact led to a significant increase in operating margin in the period, which was up 330 basis points to 12.8%. Let's now look at segmental margins on Slide 21. Both segments saw significant improvements in margins from 2020 as volumes came back into the business due to the COVID recovery. A&F margins have recovered to a very healthy 15%. This recovery was as a result of excellent commercial and operational delivery, pricing actions and procurement self-help initiatives offsetting heightened inflationary pressures and the COVID disruptions during the year. These operating margins are ahead of pre-COVID 2019 levels by 30 basis points on a reported basis. PM margins were up 270 basis points year-on-year to 7.1% as a result of the improving volumes. However, they were held back by the continuing labor availability issues in the U.S. It is noted that excluding the U.S. business, where we are facing these localized labor issues, PM margins were a very healthy 14.4%. And as already noted today in relation to the U.S. and as part of the strategic project activity, we will address the labor availability issues in the U.S. And as a result, we expect a material improvement in PM margins. On Slide 22, we show the bottom half of the profit and loss account, and there are 4 areas I'd like to cover off on this slide. Firstly, exceptional and acquisition-related items of $14 million, which include $12 million spent in relation to our pursuit of strategic acquisition opportunities during the year. Our approach to acquisitions remains disciplined, and we will continue to look for companies with complementary capabilities that can further strengthen the core, technology, innovations or intellectual property, which can be scaled to deliver growth and value for customers and shareholders. Secondly, you will see that net finance costs were significantly lower than 2020, primarily as a result of the $4 million interest receivable in relation to a historic indirect tax claim in Brazil. In addition, we had lower interest on our borrowings due to lower interest rates and lower average levels of net debt. The third item is the normalization of our underlying effective tax rate to 31% after the spike that was caused by COVID in 2020. As profitability had normalized to pre-COVID levels in 2021, so has the effective tax rate, as expected. The final item to flag is the proposed final dividend of $0.015 per share, which is 15% above 2020 levels and reflects the strength of the group's balance sheet, the strong growth and recovery out of the COVID pandemic and the Board's confidence in the strategy and growth outlook for the group. Moving now to Slide 23, where we see the strong cash generation for the year. At an adjusted free cash flow level, we delivered $113 million compared to $28 million last year. This is a very strong performance, although I note, there are some nonrecurring benefits within this number as a result of the COVID actions taken during 2020 like, for example, the nonpayment of staff bonuses, which would usually be paid in March. The increase in cash generation was largely due to the recoverability in operating profits that I've talked about earlier, but we also maintained our discipline across other cash levers as set out on this slide. And this was despite some increase in working capital via inventories to support customers given supply chain disruption. Our closing net debt of $147 million, excluding leases, was lower than at the end of 2020 as a result of the strong adjusted free cash flow noted earlier, more than offsetting our ongoing pension payments and a return to paying shareholder dividends following COVID. This level of net debt equates to leverage of 0.7x, which is slightly below the target range of between 1 and 2x. We have also maintained a comfortable liquidity position with committed facility headroom of around $330 million. I would like to reiterate our capital allocation policy, which remains unchanged. We are focused on reinvesting in organic growth, inorganic growth opportunities in line with our disciplined acquisition strategy, supporting pensions and paying a progressive dividend. On Slide 24, I give an update on our U.K. pensions position following the most recent triennial valuation, which had an effective date of the 31st of March 2021. I'm pleased to say we reached agreement with scheme trustees well ahead of the schedule, and the valuation resulted in an improved technical provisions deficit of GBP 193 million. This was GBP 59 million below the previous valuation. As a result of this, we've been able to agree to the same level of annual contributions going forward at GBP 22 million or around GBP 25 million when including admin expenses and levy. These contributions will run until 2028, but we now expect the deficit to be paid off slightly ahead of the previous schedule. On an IAS 19 accounting basis, the U.K. pension scheme is now in a healthy surplus position of $108 million, and that largely reflects the different valuation methodologies of gross liability between the accounting methodology and the more prudent technical provisions basis of accounting that derive our cash funding of the U.K. scheme. The improvement in the accounting position to a surplus on our balance sheet predominantly relates to net actuarial gains of $203 million, which was driven by a higher discount rate due to higher corporate bond yields as well as asset outperformance and the contributions we have made to the scheme during the year. On Slide 25, we set out the specific financial guidance in relation to the strategic projects that we are undertaking. For the overall project, we anticipate some $50 million of bottom line EBIT benefits to be delivered in 2024. The footprint aspects of this program will largely be focused on PM markets with the resulting material improvement in PM margins, as I mentioned earlier. The total exceptional reorganization cost to achieve these savings will be around $35 million with the majority of that occurring in '22 and with the remaining actions planned to occur in 2023. As a result of the timing of these actions, we expect the full run rate of savings for 2024 to be achieved before the end of 2023. In terms of the near-term impact on 2022, we expect incremental EBIT benefits of around $5 million to $10 million to be delivered this year. Lastly from me, and as with previous announcements, we have provided future modeling guidance, the latest of which is set out on Slide 26. I'm not planning to go through this in detail, but we'll be very happy to arrange follow-up calls if you have any questions on this and indeed, the strategic project financials I just covered on the previous slide. I conclude by reiterating the strong performance of the group in the year, the accelerating sales growth, the continued mitigation of inflationary pressures, the ongoing strength of the business and balance sheet and the future margin progression as a result of strategic projects. And now I'd like to hand back to Rajiv.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveThank you, Jackie. I'm now going to display our highlights slide, talk through the outlook before opening up for Q&A. Commercially, operationally and financially, 2021 was a really strong year for Coats. I would like to thank all of my colleagues for their tireless work, remarkable resilience and fortitude. I look forward to updating you in the middle of the year on the progress of the strategic projects that were announced today. Our focus is to accelerate profitable sales growth and transform the company to be even more successful in a post-pandemic world. Finally, in terms of the outlook for the rest of the year. The strong end to the year has continued into the start of 2022. And despite some evidence of stock replenishment from customers during this period, we expect continued growth for 2022 as a whole. We remain confident in our ability to mitigate inflationary pressures through pricing and productivity actions. We now anticipate the group's full year 2022 performance to be modestly ahead of our previous expectations. Thank you very much for your time. And now I hand back to Victoria.
Victoria Huxster
executiveThank you, Rajiv. We now have some time for Q&A, and the Q&A session will begin shortly. [Operator Instructions]
Operator
operator[Operator Instructions] The first question today comes from Charles Hall at Peel Hunt.
Charles Hall
analystWell done on a very impressive statement. A few questions. Firstly, can you just talk a little bit more on pricing? You've obviously had to push through a fairly significant amount in terms of recovering $60 million or so of additional costs last year through pricing and productivity and presumably a similar sort of level this year. Do you feel the pricing environment has changed? Is that a sort of post-pandemic feel? Or is there something that you're doing that is different this time around?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. Charles, thank you very much for your compliments here. I think the pricing environment last year was reasonably favorable for a few reasons. One is overall inflation as far as raw materials were concerned. But I think more importantly, the reliability of supply became a really big issue. And pretty much everyone up and down the value chain in our industry was aware that in order to get goods from one country to another country, you might have to ship it by air. You might have to hire more people because of kind of COVID-related absenteeism, et cetera. So bizarrely enough, last year, the pricing environment was quite favorable, and it was relatively easy to get price last year.
Charles Hall
analystAnd do you see that as an ongoing situation where customers are much more concerned about getting on time in full than purely the best price?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveI think 2022 is going to be more of the same, Charles. I think reliability of supply is going to be the #1 priority for most of the brands. And then after that, it's going to be quality, sustainability, et cetera.
Charles Hall
analystYes. Got it. And I know your exposure to Russia and Ukraine is tiny, but if you could just give a bit of insight into what operations you have got there in terms of revenues and people and how things are.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. So let me start with Ukraine first. We have 8 employees and 2 contractors. Our #1 priority is their safety, and I won't be talking more about them primarily for their -- sort of their own safety there. We don't have any manufacturing in Ukraine. It's primarily a warehousing operation. And the revenues in Ukraine is 0.3% of group sales and profits, close to negligible. So I think overall, from a financial standpoint, it's not really relevant. The key focus for us is really the people and making sure that they are safe, and we are investing a lot of time and energy to make sure that they are safe. And I'm happy to report as of this morning, they were all safe. With respect to Russia, Russia accounts were roughly 0.6% of group revenues. We have 11 employees there. It's getting more hard to ship product into Russia. And given with what's happening with the banking system there, it's hard to get cash out of Russia. So I think from a practical standpoint, it looks like getting products in and cash out is going to be a challenge in Russia this year. We are actually evaluating our options as far as Russia is concerned. But again, even in Russia, it is very important for us to make sure that the employees there are safe. And if we do decide at some point in the future that due to unforeseen circumstances, we can't continue, then we'll make sure that we'll take care of the employees.
Charles Hall
analystGreat. And then lastly, you've obviously had an exceptional charge relating to an M&A transaction. And obviously, Jackie sort of went into some detail on that. But do you want to just give a bit of color on what happened there and your thoughts about future M&A?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveRight. So I guess with sort of respect to that M&A, I'm sure you know that we can't go into too much of detail here. We are bound by NDA. But it's fair to say that we were looking at a reasonably large acquisition. It was transformational in some ways. We had reached into advanced stages of due diligence. And I guess at every stage, you're actually -- you're sort of assessing the balance between risk and reward. And there came a point where the risk was slightly more than what we -- what was acceptable to us. And we decided not to sort of continue going forward with it. I think the key point here is to highlight 2 things, I think. One is the ambition that we have, and we have been talking about it that we want to move beyond just smaller bolt-ons into midsized companies or some transformational deals. And that's what we were trying last year. The second thing is it just shows the discipline in the company that we will not get sort of unreasonably attracted by something which might look good on the surface but carries a lot of risk. So I think the overall discipline around M&A continues in the company. Now going forward, we have stated our ambition. We are looking for slightly larger acquisitions. The areas that we're looking at continue to be the same. So it's essentially Performance Materials. It's the Coats Digital solutions, which is our software business in apparel. And if we get any opportunities as far as consolidation in the core business is concerned, we'll certainly be looking at that. So that doesn't change.
Operator
operatorThe next question today comes from David Farrell of Jefferies.
David Richard Farrell
analystYes, echoing Charles' comments on a great set of results and outlook. I've also got 3 questions. The first one is regarding non-U.S. Performance Material margins. I think in the first half, they were 16.5%. And for the full year, they were 14.4%, which suggests in the second half, they dropped off quite substantially. Can you just confirm what's been going on there, please?
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveDavid, it's Jackie Callaway here. Thanks for the question. I think both actually the A&F and the PM margins benefited in the first half from the temporary cost savings that we put in place in 2020. And as we've seen, they have normalized during 2021. But it's probably a bit more weighted towards the second half of the year.
David Richard Farrell
analystOkay. And then I just wanted to ask around kind of the competitive landscape. Clearly, 200 basis points of market share gain is quite exceptional for you guys. I wonder what the ability of the second and third players in the market is to catch up with you in terms of their sustainability offering. Clearly, at the tail end, it's going to be difficult. But are the largest competitors working on new products, which you think might come snap back and take some market share back off you?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. David, I guess if you look at last year's market share gains of 2 percentage points, I would say that half of that came from our global competitors. So it's the like of the #2, the #3, the #4 and the #5. And the balance, 50% of that, came from the long tail that we had here. With respect to innovation, sustainability, they all have new products. They all have their own version of sustainable products. If I look at our EcoVerde sales, which is our recycled polyester thread sales, last year, we did about $97 million of sales. Based on market intelligence, customer feedback, third-party sourcing information, it is our belief that collectively, all the other players are doing about $15 million of recycled polyester thread sales. So compared to $97 million of Coats, sort of collectively, the rest are doing around $15 million. So the gap is pretty wide. I think the gap will remain wide into the medium term. But I do expect the #2 and #3 companies to catch up in the future.
David Richard Farrell
analystOkay. And lastly, before I turn it back over, I just wondered in terms of your client base, traditionally, you're very much at the premium end. I just kind of wondered how negotiations are going on with kind of the more fast fashion labels as they step up their sustainability agendas.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveRight. So are you talking about pricing data or just general negotiations?
David Richard Farrell
analystNo. I think traditionally, they've not been willing to pay your prices. They would take an inferior thread. But I expect given where they want to be in terms of sustainability, that might have changed, and they'd be coming back to you.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveYes. Yes. Okay. So I think if you look at the $97 million of EcoVerde sales that we had, roughly 1/3 of that went into sort of new customers, European fast fashion brands. And we're actually seeing sustainability as a big lever to not only gain market share, but also to get pricing premium. So roughly, the price premium that we're getting from some of these fast fashion brands is between 7% and 9% compared to comparable products there. So yes, in the past, a lot of these fast fashion brands were very price sensitive. But I think given what's happened in the last 3, 4 years, a lot of these brands are looking to reinvent themselves and focus more on sustainability.
Operator
operatorThe next question comes from Maggie Schooley at Stifel.
Margaret Schooley
analystJust a few questions. Composites, with the EV acceleration in automotive, which was quite clear over COVID, can you give us an update on your discussions with the automotive OEMs? I know your time to market and acceptability has been quite quick for what is a long-term supply chain. So just an update on how things are going there. And then secondly, potentially an unfair question and more longer term, but you've had a very good movement on the pension. I know there's a difference between the technical and accounting issue, but it would suggest that perhaps this gives you more long-term options. Perhaps premature, but any understanding of what could possibly be done longer term on the pension would be helpful. And then lastly, on water consumption, given huge amounts of water consumption in the industry, I know you have some pretty aggressive targets. But if you can give me an update on those projects to continue to reduce water consumption in the production of your products, that would be very helpful.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. So let me start with the Composites, then I'll ask Jackie to talk about pensions. I'll come back and talk about water consumption here. So composites clearly remains a high-growth area for us. I think this decade, Maggie, the growth is going to be fueled by 2 sort of areas in composites. One is going to be telecom, so this whole thing around 5G rollout and fiber-to-home rollout, which is still in its nascent stage right now. And there's still a lot of homes that need to be connected. So we see that growth structurally very strong this decade, and that's going to fuel a lot of the composite growth. The automotive composites that you're talking about, the whole light-weighting of cars electrification, today, the business that we have is largely with existing legacy automotive brands who are looking to lightweight some of their existing cars that they have. We are in discussions with several EV companies to see how we can actually make for them battery trays, which is the biggest issue that they have today in terms of heat dissipation and light-weighting. I am reasonably confident that in the next few years, this is going to become a bigger and bigger part of the composites portfolio. And if all goes well, probably by the end of the decade, this is going to require a massive, large factory somewhere in the Western world. Jackie, do you want to pick up on the pensions?
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveThanks, Rajiv. And so Maggie, we did comment that we've been very pleased with where we landed with the valuation on the pension, the U.K. pension. That put us in a position now where we've set up a joint working group with the trustees to look at the longer-term derisking of the scheme. Now that is a longer-term journey. It's probably somewhere around the sort of 8 to 10 years, but we've kicked off those discussions. And I hope to be able to update you on those probably at the half year or next year's full year results.
Margaret Schooley
analystOkay. Interesting. And on water?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. Just on water here, I think -- so a couple of things here. One is that we are focusing more and more of recycling of our existing water so we don't consume a lot of external water coming in. So that's the first thing. The second thing that we're doing is looking at our dye house, where we use a lot of water either for cleaning the machines or in the dyeing process. And we're working with the dye and chemical suppliers to make sure that we can actually use less water in this whole process along with less chemicals. The third thing that we are doing is, in terms of our own production and how we load the factories, we are looking at smarter ways to actually manage the loading of machines wherein we can optimize water. And the fourth thing, which is quite basic, is stop the leakages that happen across multiple factories. A large factory can have sources of leakage. So I think those are the 4 basic things that we're doing in terms of water consumption reduction. The other thing is we have invested in a start-up in terms of waterless dyeing here. And that seems to be maturing to a point where now those machines are starting to go into customer sites. And if this technology can mature and scale up, it's basically going to revolutionize the way we manufacture, and it's going to be 0 water consumption. So we're looking at the transformation side of it. But in the meantime, we're also doing the basic blocking and tackling, measuring the water consumption, recycling and reusing of water.
Operator
operatorThe next question today comes from Mark Fielding of RBC.
Mark Fielding
analystI've got sort of 3 questions. I feel they're linked into things you've been talking about already. I mean, firstly, maybe you could just talk -- obviously, in terms of EcoVerde, you've talked about the 2024 target. Just maybe talk a bit more about how you see growth over the next year or so. And I know in the past, there was some bottlenecks in terms of things like raw materials, et cetera, for that. Just checking that there's no issues there in terms of manufacturing capacity from your side as you look to grow into it. Maybe take that question first.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. Thanks, Mark. I guess with EcoVerde last year, we did $97 million. The expectation this year is that we'll do around $150 million. It could be higher or it could be lower. This is just an estimate right now here. There are no supply issues. So we have enough of recycled polyester suppliers across the world. As you would expect, a lot of our EcoVerde sales depend on how the brands are planning to market their final products. So it needs to be in line with whatever the brands are doing as far as the entire garment is concerned. There's no point in having recycled polyester thread when the rest of the garment is made out of oil-based products. So we are clearly seeing growth in this area here. More and more brands are now trying to get the entire garment or the entire shoe made out of recycled materials. I think we are confident about $150 million this year, and that's going to significantly increase the following year.
Mark Fielding
analystAnd actually, if I can just ask a follow-up linked to that? With the launch of the sort of all-natural thread, obviously, EcoVerde basically uses your existing manufacturing infrastructure. Is it the same if you go all natural? Is there going to be more meaningful shifts to your manufacturing processes?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveSo if you go all natural, it's -- we can still use the existing machines, the existing labor, the existing standard operating procedures. So there isn't any incremental investment we need to do there. And just in terms of plant-based or eco products here, that is the endgame, all right? Recycled product is basically a transitionary phase between where we are and where we need to get to as an industry. And so we have started with these all-natural plant-based products last year. And I'm hoping that over the next couple of years, we'll start to see more and more of that growing.
Mark Fielding
analystGreat. Now technically, my second question but it's actually my third because I had a little follow-up there, but just can you talk about, obviously, up strongly on where we were in 2019, a very strong finish to the year, just maybe talk in a bit more detail about how you see inventory build in the market. Obviously, as you said, there's been a focus on things like reliability. Where are we in inventories versus past levels? Do you think structural inventories in the market change, et cetera?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveSo I think last year, if you look at the growth last year, it came as a result of 3 factors. One is the pent-up demand that was sort of building during the COVID year. The second one is buffer buying. Essentially, that is brand buying more than what they need to offset the uncertainty around the supply chain issues across the world. And the third one is sort of a normal restocking in the inventory. So I think these are the 3 factors that led to the volume growth last year. I think these 3 factors will still be in play this year. And hopefully then by first quarter next year, we'll start to see supply chain issues normalizing, the inventory buildup sort of getting back to its sort of normal levels and pent-up demand being sort of addressed. So I think this year is going to be more of the same.
Mark Fielding
analystAnd just to clarify that then. In terms of inventory levels and where we are, my impression, we're not back where we were in 2019 yet. But is there a risk at some point that we roll past this and we go to a destock? Or do you think that's not a problem?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveI don't think that's going to be a problem because there will still be supply chain issues this year.
Mark Fielding
analystOkay. And then finally, a follow-up to the earlier question on the H1-H2 split in margins and margins being lower in the second half. I noted Jackie's comment about the benefit from temporary savings. I suppose just -- it's been a while since we've seen a normal year. Is there any seasonal factors as well or any other factors should we think about the second half margins as more of the base for future forecasts? Or is it more the year level as a whole that you think is representative?
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveSo I don't think you can make those comments, Mark, or those assumptions about the second half or the first half. I think we just had that -- we had a year where we've come out of 2020, and it's been a bit of an odd year in terms of how that played out with costs. I don't think you can read anything more into it than that.
Mark Fielding
analystSo when you -- say, as a simple analyst, and I'm adding the roughly 300 basis points to margins from your cost savings plan today, the full year level is probably a good representation because you say there's a lot of moving parts through the year, Vietnam closures, et cetera. Is that fair?
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveSo I think what we're saying on the strategic projects is that you look forward into 2024. And you -- basically, we are seeing a $50 million incremental EBIT into 2024. So that's what we're -- that's what we've put in as guidance on that.
Mark Fielding
analystPerfect. And that would be relative to the full year base rather than sort of second half run rate, I suppose, is what I'm saying?
Jacqueline Callaway
executiveI think that's a fair assumption, yes.
Operator
operatorThe final question today comes from James Zaremba at Barclays.
James Zaremba
analystYes. One is just a clarification on the kind of the market share point. So I guess I sort of -- from what you said re David's question, it sounds like the kind of market share from the #2 to #5 players is driven by potentially EcoVerde. It certainly seems it's something which you'd expect to kind of continue on a medium-term basis. But then I guess, if you -- maybe you could just comment around the market share gains versus the tail. Is that related to the reliability kind of focus you set in place at the moment? And -- or is that something a little bit more structural and how you see that kind of continuing? Because obviously, it's quite exceptional growth coming from market share. And then a second question would just be around the cost restructuring. I guess it will be, how much of this relates to the bolt-ons you've made in the last few years in North America? And I guess is there any risk that how you're perceived as an acquirer changes if you're making, I guess, significant restructuring for some of those bolt-on businesses?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveOkay. So let me start with the market share question you had, James. So the market share gains against our near global competitors is driven by 2 factors. One is our global scale and our ability to actually be very reliable in terms of supply. That was the primary reason. The secondary reason was EcoVerde or sustainability performance that we have. So these 2 factors were the biggest in terms of our top global competition. With respect to the long tail, it's basically reliability of supply. Most of the long tail do not play in the sustainability arena. And your second question around the cost of the changes there, I think if you just take a step back, James, we have been flagging for at least 2 years, maybe 3, that we're having challenges with labor availability in the U.S. That is a significant issue for us. We were hoping that after all the COVID subsidy or the COVID support that the federal and the state governments were actually providing to citizens in the U.S. that people would kind of get back to work. That has not happened yet. And we now have concluded that the labor issues with respect to Coats and with respect to the manufacturing areas that depend on unskilled or semiskilled labor is going to be a challenge even in the medium to long term. So we have to look at structural responses which are part of the strategic projects that we're announcing. There's no point in running a factory at 65% capacity utilization because you'll be losing money all day. So the whole idea is to make sure that we are able to have our factories in area where we can have labor and we can satisfy customers. And again, just to add some more color to the U.S. here. For the last 3 years, our factories have been running at roughly 65% capacity utilization. The order book that we have had for the last 3 years has been very strong. So from a customer standpoint, demand has been very robust. Were we to fill -- sorry, fulfill all the demand that we have, our factories would have been running at 85% to 90% capacity utilization. The fact we don't have people in the factories is sort of constraining us here. So the strategic projects that we have announced today are purely driven by the fact that we need to improve customer service in certain geographies. The way you improve customer service is to make sure you've got the right capacity, the right machines, the right labor in place to actually meet the demand. And that's what we're doing right now.
James Zaremba
analystPerfect. And maybe just as a follow-up, I guess, that sounds one which has maybe come about due to kind of the U.S. circumstance last year. But of course, you've got the cost savings in the other regions. Is this kind of -- we saw you obviously had a big program a few years ago, a second one now. Is it kind of only biting up what you can chew at one point in time? Or is it sort of actually, the footprint is where you'd want it over the next 5 plus years on the back of this?
Rajiv Sharma
executiveI think it's an excellent question, James. So the program that we announced in 2018 and completed in 2019 was largely focused around SG&A optimization. This time around, it's basically footprint optimization and portfolio optimization. So that's the primary driver in order to improve customer service in certain geographies. Now the moment you do footprint optimization and consolidation of footprint, you will have synergies as far as SG&A is concerned. So of that $50 million that Jackie mentioned in terms of incremental EBIT in 2024, we expect half of that is going to come from footprint optimization. The other half is going to come from associated costs being taken out.
James Zaremba
analystPerfect. Congratulations on the results, as everyone else said.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveThank you, James.
Operator
operatorWe have no further questions in the queue. So I'll hand back to Rajiv for any closing comments.
Rajiv Sharma
executiveAll right. Thank you. Thank you very much for your questions, all of them very interesting and deep questions. We are really excited about the performance that we delivered last year, but I think we're even more excited about this year and the future. And I think this is -- last year's performance is just evidence that the strategy that we had in place, the execution, the global footprint, I think we're in a sweet spot right now. And I can just see that the medium to long term is looking very, very bright. Just as a data point, the last crisis that happened in 2009, we had a V-shaped recovery. But more importantly, we had a 5-year bull run after that. And I can see that coming out of this crisis here, it's going to be an equally strong 3 to 5 years. So thank you very much for your time, and I look forward to meeting some of you this evening or tomorrow.
Operator
operatorThis concludes today's conference call. Thank you for joining. You may now disconnect your lines.
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