Marimekko Oyj (MEKKO) Earnings Call Transcript & Summary

Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen. My name is Anna Tuominen. I'm the IRO of Marimekko, and it is my pleasure to welcome you to our full year 2022 results webcast. In a short while, our President and CEO, Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, will walk you through our results last year. And after that, we'll have time for your questions. With Tiina, we also have our CFO, Elina Anckar, to answer any questions you might have. For the questions, we'll be using the chat function of the webcast platform, and you type in your questions already during the presentation. Without further ado, Tiina, welcome.

Thank you, Anna, and good afternoon also on my behalf. It is my pleasure today to walk you through Marimekko's financial statements in 2022. So let's get started. So first, if we start from the performance in the fourth quarter, despite the very strong sort of record-breaking comparison period and a challenging market situation, Marimekko's net sales in the fourth quarter reached last year's level and operating profit margin was at a good level. We're very happy with this outcome, given also the more challenging context and feel that this rounded out a very strong year for Marimekko. What were then some of the main drivers behind the performance in the fourth quarter? The net sales were boosted in particular by increased retail sales in Finland, but also growing international wholesale. Then on the other hand, net sales were weakened by a decrease in wholesale sales in Finland. Our relative profitability kept on a good level at 14.3% comparable operating profit margin. And then when we look at the full year 2022, our net sales had good growth of 9%. The net sales in Finland grew in a solid manner by 6%, and the growth was even stronger in international sales, namely 14%. Then on the full year, year level, our comparable operating profit margin kept at high levels and was 18.2% and landed at EUR 30.4 million. The Board of Directors of Marimekko proposes a dividend of EUR 0.34 for the year 2022. Overall, when we look at our performance in the last quarter, I must say that the market situation overall became more challenging, especially in our important domestic market. Finland, where nevertheless, the good performance in our online channel retail sales really reflects our brand's continuous desirability and appeal. We also see that thanks to our sharp and creative vision, our collections and our brands have become even stronger. And our lifestyle assortment that includes a variety of price points continues to serve our wider customer audience in a more price-sensitive environment. At Marimekko, we also firmly believe that the winning brands and companies of the future are defined and determined during more challenging market conditions. And as a profitable company, we are in the situation where we have the possibility to continue our investments to accelerate our long-term profitable growth despite even a weaker macroeconomic situation. So at Marimekko, we're filled to continue on our journey of growth and aiming at scaling our business and growth, especially in the international markets during the next years. But then let's have a look into in a closer manner to the net sales and operating profit development. So first, looking at the fourth quarter of the year. As mentioned, our net sales grew by 1%, and it was driven especially by increased retail sales in Finland, but also growing international wholesale that supported our net sales. On the other hand, our net sales were lowered by a decrease in the Finnish wholesale sales resulting from weakened general consumer demand, but also lower nonrecurring promotional deliveries. As mentioned, the market situation was and became more challenging in the fourth quarter. But again, the good performance in the Finnish retail sales really demonstrates the continuous appeal of our brand. And actually, on the total global level, our retail sales grew by 13%. Both sales in stores and online developed well. Then if we look at our second largest market area, the Asia Pacific region, both our retail and wholesale grew there and in total by 10%. So overall, we see this as a very solid performance in a more challenging market situation. Then when we look at the full year level, our net sales were boosted by a favorable trend in retail sales in Finland and growing international sales, and our net sales grew in total by 9%. On the other hand, our net sales were weakened by the decreased wholesale sales in Finland due to particularly significantly lower nonrecurring promotional deliveries than in the comparable year. This was not a surprise for us. As some of you might remember, since the beginning of 2022, we communicated that this nonrecurring promotional deliveries in the domestic market wholesale were planned to be substantially lower than in the year 2021. Then when we look at our retail performance, very, very good development there. On a global level, 19% growth in Finland, even higher growth, plus 21%. And then in the Asia Pacific region, our second largest market area, again, both our retail and wholesale sales grew. What is also good to note there is that no own stores were temporary closed during 2022, like in the previous year. In 2021, some of the wholesale deliveries in the fourth quarter were transferred to the first quarter of 2022. But overall, sales in Finland, plus 6% and international sales, 14%. So we're very happy with this development overall. In the past year, when we look at the net sales split product line, we can see the kind of recovery of fashion and bags and accessories consumption after the pandemic peak pandemic years. So the share of both ready-to-wear and bags and accessories grew when we look at the annual level and especially the growth was strong in the bags and accessories product line, namely plus 27% growth to the previous year. Finland is still our strong home market, single biggest market, and then the Asia Pacific region comes as the second biggest market. But the Asia Pacific region already now today has the greatest number of Marimekko stores. And today, the Marimekko online store serves customers in already 35 countries. Actually, in the last quarter of the year, also a new Marimekko online store was opened in Hong Kong. In the full year level, our brand sales grew by 2%, reaching over EUR 380 million. And what is the brand sales about? They represent the reach of our brand through the different distribution channels and there an omni special estimate of sales of our products at consumer prices. So they are calculated by adding together the company's own retail net sales and the estimated retail value of our products sold by other retailers. Then when we look at our profitability, so first, in the fourth quarter, as mentioned at the beginning, our comparable operating profit margin kept at a good level, reaching 14.3% of net sales and landing at EUR 6.9 million. Our operating profit was weakened, especially by an increase in fixed cost, but also lower relative sales margin. So what are the drivers behind the fixed cost increase? There due to our plant activities, the higher feed cost came from, for example, higher personnel costs that enabled our retail growth, but also our investments in marketing and digital development. Then when it comes to the lower relative sales margin, that was mainly due to the higher discounts as well as lower licensing income. However, what supported the relative sales margin was actually continued good margins per product and higher share of retail sales out of total net sales. So in terms of the operating profit, then on the other hand, the lower depreciation than in the comparison period supported our profitability. On an annual level, the cumulative result continued to be on a high level, reaching 18.2% of net sales and landing at EUR 30.4 million. Again, very similar drivers on an annual level, so our operating profit was mostly weakened by an increase in fixed costs, but also in lower relative sales margin. The increase in fixed cost is due to the planned and then executed investments in the building blocks for our long-term international growth resulting in, for example, increased personnel, IT marketing costs. The lower relative sales margin, on the other hand, is then due to the higher discounts than in the comparison year as well as increased logistic costs that were due to the general increase in transport costs. Again, on the other hand, the relative sales margin was supported by good margins per product, higher licensing income and larger share of retail sales out of total net sales. On the other hand, then the operating profit was supported especially by increased net sales but also lower depreciation than in the comparable year. And then have -- let's then have a closer look into the key events in the fourth quarter. So first of all, we're very excited and thrilled to have opened a new experiential store in New York in SoHo. Some of you might remember that we closed our previous flagship store in New York when the lease term ended. And then now we reemerged in New York with this new creative concept that was opened at the end of November. SoHo is obviously an epicenter of International Fashion and Design brands and New York as such is one of the most important cities in the global fashion industry. So we see that our presence there has not only an important impact for us and are kind of present in New York and North America, but actually, it also allows us to build awareness and positioning for our brand in the wider context extending impact also to Europe and Asia. We also developed the network of more Marimekko stores in other markets. Namely in the fourth quarter, New Marimekko stores were opened also in [indiscernible] and in Bangkok. And as mentioned before, an online store was opened in Hong Kong. I have also discussed in the past about the growing importance of different kinds of also new creative retail concepts such as pop-up stores. So in the fourth quarter, pop-up of stores that delighted our customers in Hangzhou and in Montreal as well as in Taiho. We believe that even in this digitalized world, where obviously, online commerce place and even increasing role, still physical store play a hugely important role, not only as their own distribution channels, but also as the heart of the brand culture that build awareness, deepen customer experience and support sales in also the other channels. At Marimekko, we want to be at the forefront of developing more sustainable products and practices. And this is really for us walking the talk in terms of our values. We believe firmly that determining sustainability efforts support our long-term success. And now in 2022, our activities to develop sustainability included, for example, work to promote innovation and business models in line with the principles of circular economy as well as work to further increase the share of more sustainable materials in our products. In the fourth quarter, Marimekko preloved, our secondhand Finnish resell platform that we originally launched in August was expanded to include also home products. And we also announced a pilot, a very exciting pilot regarding closed-loop clothing production that will enable us to learn more about the possibilities there. And then finally, let's have a look into the outlook for 2023. So first of all, in general terms, of course, we see that the uncertainties related to the general development of the global economy. For example, the risk of an economic recession, general cost inflation, increasing interest rates and energy crisis as well as geopolitical tensions, influence consumer confidence, purchasing power and behavior and thus can have an impact on our business in 2023, particularly in our important domestic market. The pandemic situation, particularly in China, where restrictions have recently been lifted, and of course, Russia's war against Ukraine may still cause even significant disruptions in production logistics chain, which may result in delivery delays and increased costs and thus have a negative impact on the business. But of course, we are closely monitoring the development of the aforementioned and are adjusting our operations and plans according to the circumstances. I think that this is something that in the volatile circumstances of the past, especially 3 years, this is something that we've really learned to do and manage. Then when we look at the net sales development outlook for 2023, first, looking at Finland, our strong home market, representing traditionally about half of our company's net sales. In Finland, we do expect our sales to grow on the previous year. And what is also to be noted is that the Finnish wholesale sales in '23 will be positively affected by these nonrecurring promotional deliveries, the total values which is estimated to be substantially higher than the year before. A vast majority of the deliveries will take place in the second half of the year. Then when we look into Asia Pacific, our second largest market area and a market area that plays a very important role in our international growth strategy. We estimate the net sales in the Asia Pacific region to increase in 2023 as our total international sales expected to increase as well. In this new year, our aim is to open approximately 5 to 10 new Marimekko stores and shop-in-shops. And similarly, as in the past years, most of these plant openings will be in Asia. Then a few words about seasonality. So as many of you might already know because of the seasonal nature of our business, the major portion of our companies were denominated net sales and operating results are traditionally generated during the second half of the year. In 2023, our net sales are expected to grow. However, what is good to note is that net sales in the first quarter of the year, we estimate to be lower than in the comparison period due to the weaker outlook at the beginning of the year for the wholesale sales in Finland as well as lower licensing income. In addition, net sales in the first quarter of 2022 were boosted by some of the wholesale deliveries in the Asia Pacific region, in the fourth quarter of '21 being transferred to the first quarter of 2022. For the full year 2023, our licensing income is estimated to be below our record level of 2022. Then some thoughts and words about the growth investments and costs. So of course, the general cost inflation continues to affect us also in 2023. And what is good to remember is that the early commitment to product orders from supplier partners, which is typical of our industry means that changes in cost affect our company with a delay. And as also communicated in the previous year, these kind of early commencements have been further emphasized by the pandemic situation, weakening our company's ability to optimize our product orders and respond to rapid changes in demand and consumer behavior, which, of course, then also increases risk related to inventory management. Also, the domestic nonrecurring promotional deliveries raised inventory risks. But of course, we work very actively to mitigate the negative impacts of disruptions in production and logistics chains as well as increased costs and we work to enhance inventory management. We have just started our new strategy term this year. We develop our business with a long-term view and aim to scale our growth, especially in the international market in the upcoming years. Thus, the growth requires investments, and therefore, in 2023, our fixed costs are expected to be up on the previous year, and marketing expenses are also expected to grow. Then to the financial guidance for 2023. So we estimate the Marimekko Group's net sales to grow from the previous year and the comparable operating profit margin is estimated to be approximately some 16% to 19%. The development of consumer confidence and purchasing power, the global supply chain disruptions and the general inflation development, especially cause volatility to the outlook in 2023. And just to reiterate the proposal for the dividend for 2022. We have long had a dividend policy of -- as an objective to have -- as an objective to pay a dividend yearly and minimum 50% of the EPS. And this is our proposal from our Board of Directors to the Annual General Meeting that the dividend of EUR 0.34 per share will be paid for 2022. But with these words, I will thank you for listening, and we're ready for any questions that you might have.

Thank you, Tiina. At this point, I would like to remind you that you can use the chat function to ask any questions if you have. Maybe just a few words about the new strategy period that you mentioned has started now. Would you like to summarize what it's all about?

Yes, gladly. So the new strategy period that we have just started as the theme called scale. So we actually believe that the good performance of Marimekko in the past, actually multiple years, really showcases and demonstrates that we have started to find this recipe for scaling up the company and by speaking to an even wider global audience. So in this new strategy term that we've started, the idea and the objective is for us to further reinforce and strengthen this success recipe. And this way, scale up our business and growth in the upcoming years, especially in the international market.

Thank you, Tinna. We have no further questions. So we would like to thank you for joining us this afternoon.

Thank you.